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DrewZ

Unregistered

1

Thursday, June 6th 2013, 8:32pm

Wilkins 720 A 1" ...old style needed

I have a rain bird and wilkins backflow - installed by the homes previous owner, and this spring the backflow ruptured and I need to replace it. The problem is that it was installed using an older version that looked like this - http://diybackflow.com/products/269-wilkins-720-1.aspx and is installed quite close to an exterior wall on the back and a bay window on the other side. With the older version where the ball cocks and blow out valves and test cock valves were all facing front and correct. All I can seem to find in a Wilkins 720 A 1" are similar to http://www.zurn.com/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?NodeKey=414061 which means I would have to rotate in 180 degrees to install, which would put the ball cocks, test cocks and blow out valves against the wall and bay window wall...with less than 1/2" of clearance I will never be able to turn the test cock valve or attach my air compressor to blow the lines out.

Does anyone have a suggestion? And FWIW, I called and asked DIYBackflow if the unit they were selling was identical to the one pictured (i.e. the one I need) and the assured me it was...then sent me the new version that will not work.

I am quite frustrated. Aside from changing the installation and running the water pipes further from the house (hassle, expensive) are there any other simple solutions or suggestions? An alternate unit that would thread on to my PVC as easily as the Wilkins would have? Some engineering solution I am not thinking of?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice.

Drew

DrewZ

Unregistered

2

Thursday, June 6th 2013, 8:48pm

Danfloss possible?

I have found this online - http://www.amazon.com/Danfoss-Flomatic-Pressure-Vacuum-Breaker/dp/B003O3MIYQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_21 and it appears to be configured like the old Wilkins 720 A 1" but I am unsure if this is a suitable replacement. Looks like it should work, but I'd be grateful for an expert opinion. Has someone bought a Danfloss BFP and is it identical to the picture on Amazon? Was it just as easy to install - threaded etc?

Thanks, apologies if I am being a noob.

Drew

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,025

Location: Metro NYC

3

Friday, June 7th 2013, 7:05am

Old style Wilkins 720 is gone forever. You can always tighten/loosen the inlet valve a quarter-turn. You could also get a tiny threaded street elbow for re-orienting the one testcock.

DrewZ

Unregistered

4

Friday, June 7th 2013, 7:27am

Good suggestions

Thanks Wet Boots...I had not thought of an elbow...not sure if there are ones for the test cock and the blow out valve, but will look. The configuration is such that they would literally be right up against the bay window wall. I might be able to gain a bit by tightening it more towards the one side, but it would still be quite tough to attach the compressor and get at the test cocks. Bummed that the new configuration is completely different.

Any knowledge or experience with the Danfloss model?

DrewZ

Unregistered

5

Friday, June 7th 2013, 8:37am

Realign ball cock valves

I called the place where I ordered, and they said that the BFP unit and the ball cock valves are separate pieces, joined at the factory in that configuration, but that I could unthread the ball cock piece from the main BFP unit (carefully not to warp or damage it) then with some teflon tape and plumbers putty realign them and have it 1/4 turn less or more tight so that the valves and blow out nipple are in the location I need them. This seems logical...and I was struggling to believe that Wilkins would only sell this in one fixed position as there has to be many installation configurations like mine out there.

Has anyone done this - any risk or concerns or things I should be careful or aware of? I plan on using a couple of crescent wrenches so as to not apply too much pressure to the unit as I hear that the metal is a tad soft.

Thanks

Drew

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,025

Location: Metro NYC

6

Friday, June 7th 2013, 10:25am

Two things you need. An 18-inch long steel nipple to thread into the outlet valve. Some high-quality paste dope, like Megaloc. The nipple becomes something akin to a wrench handle, and gives you the leverage you need to more easily loosen the inlet valve. The paste dope applied atop the usual teflon tape gives you some wiggle room the tape alone won't provide, especially at high pressures.

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