You are not logged in.

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

seansy59

Advanced Member

Posts: 97

Location: NJ, USA

1

Thursday, March 22nd 2012, 2:02pm

Which Valve for DIrty Water?

I currently have Toro 3/4" inline valves, and they suck. Constantly leak, bleed, stay on and don't shut off quick enough before the next zone comes on, therefore leaving the sprinklers all bubbling.



I need 1" inline valves for very gritty water. Around $15 each.



What should I get? I need 6-7 valves. Link me to some good ones please. I'm tired of dealing with these valves every day. ANd I only started the system a week ago.



A filter won't work for this because its all sand/grit, and I would litterally have to change the filter every day.
I'm no expert..........YET! :D I just like to suggest things and learn... :thumbsup: See what the pro's have to say first.

Central Irrigation

Supreme Member

Posts: 349

Location: Central Minnesota

2

Thursday, March 22nd 2012, 3:13pm

Very few valves will do any better with your poor water quality. I wouldn't bad mouth the Toro's in this case. It sounds like you've had them apart quite a few times. If it's a Flo-Pro, I could understand, but most of toro's valves last a long time given fair water conditions.

Sand and grit is by far the worst enemy of every component of a sprinkler system. You have to eliminate it! I've built many an oversized filtration system because of this. I've got a residential system that uses three 2" Vu Flow filters for a 30 sprinkler system. Overkill, but necessary. Filter

You could try these or these or these. None of these fit your price range.

The Toro and Rainbird only prevent clogging of the selonoid. You would still have issues with weeping valves. I'm not familiar with Irritrol valve, so I can't comment on it's filtering capabilities, though I would be skeptical of it's self-flushing capabilities.

Even if you find a valve that works with your bad water, you'll just pass the sand down into your heads. You have to filter it!

This post has been edited 3 times, last edit by "Central Irrigation" (Mar 22nd 2012, 3:34pm)


3

Friday, March 23rd 2012, 7:16am

You might try Rainbird PESB orToro P220s . Both have scrubbers.
Both far more than $15 but at $15 you get basic valves and you are asking for more than that.
As Central says you are pushing the sand down the line to your heads.
If your heads start giving you a problem look at any that are for reclaimed water.
They are a little more debris tolerant.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,021

Location: Metro NYC

4

Friday, March 23rd 2012, 7:39am

For the price of new valves, you filter the entire system and keep it in better shape - for general good behavior in valve solenoids, you would want 100 mesh filtration

seansy59

Advanced Member

Posts: 97

Location: NJ, USA

5

Monday, March 26th 2012, 12:46pm

YOu know. What gets me is that it worked fine last year with very little sediment to none. We run off a well. This is the first winter they went through.

For people on wells. Do you usually flush the well for a few minutes on full blast to clean out the sediment from over winter.

I'm thinking about getting Toro 1" jar top valves for $12-$14 each at home depot for new valves since 3 of the six valves I have now are dieing. The solenoid is going in one of them, the other seal leaks, and the last one sticks even after cleaning it.
I'm no expert..........YET! :D I just like to suggest things and learn... :thumbsup: See what the pro's have to say first.

Mitchgo

Supreme Member

Posts: 502

Location: Seattle

6

Monday, March 26th 2012, 9:58pm

what the hell.. 3 out of your 6 valves are dieing and you installed it last year? I guess you get what you pay for

Get a filter in your system... Get a flush zone in your system.. Get some dirty valve applications..get a quality controller and sprinkler heads...Stop being a cheapo. ... If you don't have the budget.. Then just wait until enough is saved to get to good items.

You come on this site all the time asking for advice but never ever do what we suggest...

I installed my system 6 years ago and have yet to have single problem with it. As it should be

Central Irrigation

Supreme Member

Posts: 349

Location: Central Minnesota

7

Friday, March 30th 2012, 7:13am

If you are using a Shallow (Sand Point) well, flushing isn't a bad idea. Generally speaking, backflushing is done when the points intake screen becomes clogged. Very little you can do with a deep (submersible) well. I would suggest running the well for an extended period of time in an attempt to rid the well of grit. Obviously, you need to close a shutoff to the system.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,021

Location: Metro NYC

8

Friday, March 30th 2012, 8:22am

A good pro installer would just design a well-water system with 100-mesh filtration and ordinary valves and heads, and never have to come back to deal with sand in the system. It is possible to have a well that brings up more material than is easily dealt with, but those issues would likely be known, and maybe dealt with by way of additional treatment, like a centrifugal separator.

9

Friday, March 30th 2012, 8:27am

Wet_boots,
I was looking at centrifugal separators last week.
Was thinking of recommending for this problem but little experience in that area.
Any you recommend in particular?

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,021

Location: Metro NYC

10

Friday, March 30th 2012, 8:41am

I only know of the Lakos separators, from way back when, and never did have to go to the extreme of installing one, so I don't know how well they work in practice. They seem simple enough, swirling the water and letting sand drop out of the stream of flow.

Similar threads

Rate this thread