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stephenstrum

Starting Member

1

Thursday, May 16th 2019, 9:14am

FORUM SUGGESTIONS

I am a residential owner that just moved from Oregon to California. My irrigation system in Oregon was logical, well thought out, and fully operative. The prior owners of the home we bought in California clearly had no clue as to the setup for their irrigation system so now I am tasked with revamping much of it, from controller to valve box. The articles on the Sprinkler Warehouse website are of great value, but I have some recommendations.
#1. Have a dedicated icon to download articles on the website. Yes, you could simply hit "print" and then save to PDF but it would be great if the option to directly download PDF were present. For example, I saved "How to use a multimeter" and "Irrigation Repair" as well as "The heart of your irrigation system: the irrigation valve".

#2. I just joined the forum today and read the welcome by Gator Guy. You asked for suggestions but I did not see a place to "reply" to your welcome. A reply button would be nice if you are seeking feedback.

#3. A section on the website for graphics, again allowing for download by the user, would be helpful. I have saved multiple graphics today but again, a location for all graphics would be nice. So too would be a section with videos, such as one showing the normal function of a valve and giving information on the components of the valve (e.g., solenoid, bonnet, flow control, bleed screw, etc). You (Gator Guy) wrote a nice piece on the irrigation valve but I would like more information on flow control and bleed screw with specifics on when to use these and could adjusting either fix any particular problem.

#4. In the article (of great value) on use of the multimeter, a few sentences were unclear to me. I posted a comment this AM about those issues. First, the following re turning off the controller was unclear:

"Let’s assume the voltage is good. Now let’s check the wires. We’ll check for continuity, which is testing





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the ohms or resistance of the zone. Turn to the Ohms setting. It might look like (Ω). Check your manual to be sure. This will test for a short in the circuit. First, turn off the controller."





I hope I am not appearing stupid, but I am not sure if this means turning off the 110AC input by pulling the transformer plug from the wall or simply not having the zone turned on by the manual setting on the Controller. I would expect that turning off the zone would prevent any electric current but please make this crystal clear. You said place one lead on the common terminal and one lead (from multimeter) on zone wire/screw. If the zone wire is disconnected it can't be the zone screw; so that should be corrected.


The other area of uncertainty for me was "At the valve disconnect the wires from the valve. Now set your multimeter back to the proper VAC setting. Touch one lead to the common and one to the power. You should get the same reading here (24v) as you did at the controller."


I am interpreting this as a direction to isolate the common wire from the bundle of wires within the valve box. For example, in the valve box in question I have 4 valves with wires to the common wire from each valve. I am calling this a "bundle". To connect only to the common I have to undo the wire cap and isolate the common wire. And the other multimeter connection "to the power", I assume to be the color-coded wire for the problematic zone under study. If this was made clearer, I think the homeowner would be thankful that he is not doing anything totally stupid or destructive.



#5. Some of the links are not working. I use Google Chrome and I assume the links should work with this web browser. In the multimeter article, the URL for the Pro-48 TechTool should go directly to that tool; it does not. In another article entitled "What to do if a zone will not come on" the URL is correctly directed to the Pro-48. But should not the buyer purchase the kit that includes both the Pro-48 and the tone probe as shown at https://www.amazon.com/Armada-Technologi…customerReviews

or only the Pro-48? It would seem to me that if there is an issue with wiring, the wire tone probe is essential. Please clarify.

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