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1

Tuesday, September 25th 2018, 11:54am

Pool Company Cut 10 electrical wires

Hi All,

My pool installation company cut a bunch of my valve electrical lines during excavation. I am having some trouble figuring out what line goes where. There are 7 red wires and 3 white wires that have been cut.

Power is coming in from the left side (confirmed with a multimeter). I am also sure that one of the white wires is not part of the common wire as the controller also has a white wire going to zone 3

What is the best way to connnect these back in the right order?

Thanks for your help




mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,307

Location: USA

2

Tuesday, September 25th 2018, 2:04pm

Tip number 1. Stay calm. Something like that can be overwhelming if you don't have a clue what to do.
I would determine which white wire is the common wire/s. Turn on number 1 then go to the wires and see which white wire is the common. You can use a multimeter to see which two wires give you about 24V. One white and one red. Then you know the common wire and the number 1 wire.
You can touch the active red wire to the other wires one at a time to see when number 1 comes on. When it does, hook it up. You'll also be guessing at which of the three white wires is common on the other side. But there's only 3. Trial and error. Or you can use the multimeter on the valve side of the cut wires where they are cut. Test one white and one red at the same time and see what the reading is. Most solenoids come in around 26 ohms but Rainbirds come in at 45 ohms. Try all three white wires with one of the red wires one at a time. Two should give you a reading. The third will be something different.

So basically. Multi meter for volts on one side then ohms on the other. Determine the two common wires and the rest should be simple.

3

Wednesday, September 26th 2018, 4:44pm

Ha! Yes, staying calm is the hard part. Thanks for the help, I will try this out tomorrow and see what additional questions I have!

4

Sunday, September 30th 2018, 5:10pm

I’m still having issues finding the common wires. With one combination I am getting around 45-60 ohms but once that occurs I no longer am getting the 24v and I cannot get anything to turn on.

Is it possible all 3 white wires are common? My assumption is all 3 need to be matched correctly

5

Sunday, September 30th 2018, 6:20pm

Also, I am able to get a reading of 46 ohms at the cut with a configuration on a zone, but it is not reading any ohms at the controller

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,307

Location: USA

6

Sunday, September 30th 2018, 9:42pm

Can you post a picture of the wiring at the controller?
Is there two white wires hooked up to the common terminals and one white to number 3? No other whites yes?
Do this, turn on number one for an hour or whatever so it doesn't turn off while you're working on it. Now put one lead to one of the white wires where they're cut. Then one to each of the red until you get a reading of 24-26V or so. That should be the common wire and the number one wire. Now try that number 1 red wire with the other two whites. Does one of them also read 24-26V? That's the other common. The third white wire is number 3.

Once you've figured the two common wires, you can turn them on 1 station at a time to figure the other wires.
Now you know the wires leading from the controller to the break.
----
All this is from the break to the valves.
Check one of the white wires with one of the red wires and look for ohms. You can determine which two white wires are the commons because they'll give you a good reading. The other white wire is number 3. Splice the white wires together before continuing.

Now either just hook them all up and run through the timer to see what comes on. You can move the wires around at the controller to the correct numbers. Or, you can turn them on one at a time, go out to the break and touch the red wires togeher one at a time until the correct zone comes on. Or you can just leave it alone and the zones will simply come on in a different order but you'll have to reprogram the run times if they're not all the same. Like 10 min each.

It really isn't that hard once you get your head around it. Read through until you get it. Or ask more questions.

1. Check for volts at the break on the controller side.
2. Check for ohms at the break on the valve side.
3. Hook up the wires. Commons first.

Once you have the commons hooked up it'll be simple.

This post has been edited 2 times, last edit by "mrfixit" (Sep 30th 2018, 9:52pm)


7

Monday, October 1st 2018, 11:51am

Added answers in blue

[/quote]
Can you post a picture of the wiring at the controller? Yes, Ill upload one in the next post
Is there two white wires hooked up to the common terminals and one white to number 3? No other whites yes?
Do this, turn on number one for an hour or whatever so it doesn't turn off while you're working on it. Now put one lead to one of the white wires where they're cut. Then one to each of the red until you get a reading of 24-26V or so. That should be the common wire and the number one wire. Now try that number 1 red wire with the other two whites. Does one of them also read 24-26V? 1 Wire reads 22v and the other 2 read 28v That's the other common. The third white wire is number 3.

Once you've figured the two common wires, you can turn them on 1 station at a time to figure the other wires.
Now you know the wires leading from the controller to the break.
----
All this is from the break to the valves.
Check one of the white wires with one of the red wires and look for ohms. You can determine which two white wires are the commons because they'll give you a good reading. The other white wire is number 3. Splice the white wires together before continuing. When I do this, one white reads nothing, one reads 88-89 ohm, and one 46 ohms

Now either just hook them all up and run through the timer to see what comes on. You can move the wires around at the controller to the correct numbers. Or, you can turn them on one at a time, go out to the break and touch the red wires togeher one at a time until the correct zone comes on. Or you can just leave it alone and the zones will simply come on in a different order but you'll have to reprogram the run times if they're not all the same. Like 10 min each. I got as far as thinking that I found the common, hooked it up, then hooked a red (zone wire up) and the ohms even read 46 at the controller for zone one, but nothing turned on. I did try it to multiple zones but they all didnt start the sprinklers

It really isn't that hard once you get your head around it. Read through until you get it. Or ask more questions.

1. Check for volts at the break on the controller side.
2. Check for ohms at the break on the valve side.
3. Hook up the wires. Commons first.

Once you have the commons hooked up it'll be simple.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "Diesel3443" (Oct 1st 2018, 12:07pm)


8

Monday, October 1st 2018, 12:06pm

Here is the controller. The bottom six zones are the ones that do not work. Zone 7 that is is a white wire turns on.

You can see there is another white wire that is not connected to anything that I am suspecting may be one of the other whites that were cut.


mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,307

Location: USA

9

Monday, October 1st 2018, 1:02pm

I should have asked for a pic right at the beginning. I knew better.

Looks like you have 13 valves and a master valve or a pump.

I see 4 white wires. Only one is hooked to the common terminal. I only see 3 white wires in the open trench. I see about 6 red wires. So you have wires going to two different locations.

You probably have two solenoids connected together on the 88. Maybe it's the pump. I'm clueless on what a pump would ohm out at. It sounds like you have Rainbird valves. Do you have a pump or is it a master valve?

This is so much simpler in person. lol

The white wire that reads nothing on ohms isn't the common wire. I'll come back later.

10

Monday, October 1st 2018, 1:31pm

I should have asked for a pic right at the beginning. I knew better.

Looks like you have 13 valves and a master valve or a pump.

I see 4 white wires. Only one is hooked to the common terminal. I only see 3 white wires in the open trench. I see about 6 red wires. So you have wires going to two different locations.

You probably have two solenoids connected together on the 88. Maybe it's the pump. I'm clueless on what a pump would ohm out at. It sounds like you have Rainbird valves. Do you have a pump or is it a master valve?

This is so much simpler in person. lol

The white wire that reads nothing on ohms isn't the common wire. I'll come back later.


I have a master valve, no pump. Correct. There are 13 zones and zone 6 has 2 power wires attached to it. Those 2 wires are also at the cut which makes it a total of 7 red wires.

I just noticed that 6 of the reds are ohm at 46 and one is ohm 55-56 when I connect. What I think is the common.

I also realized that there is one extra red wire.....I’m sure it’s not turning on has something to do with it.

And Thank you!

This post has been edited 4 times, last edit by "Diesel3443" (Oct 1st 2018, 7:10pm)


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