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Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,082

Location: Metro NYC

21

Sunday, February 25th 2007, 10:56am

Nothing you have done has completely ruled out a broken/clogged zone valve. One way to deal with a sloppy glue job is to probe the solenoid waterway with a marking flag. Often, a clogged passageway can be opened this way. You have a new valve to compare with. If you are certain the valve is operational, then you move to the next step.

Just keep it simple and mark the heads that aren't spraying water. Dismantle the first head in the line (the first one that would receive water from the valve) and make sure there isn't any blockage. No blocked screens. No dirt or stones in the line. Try to manually open the valve, and see if you get water at the head. You can also do this investigation backwards. Connect your garden hose to where you unscrewed a head, and feed in water. See if the rest of the zone is working. Sometimes, you can even backflush a pipe from a head connection, towards the dismantled zone valve, and clear things up that way

BSME

Advanced Member

22

Sunday, February 25th 2007, 12:11pm

boots is right.. but if you narrow it down to where you think the pipe is obstructed that steel fish tape works. b/c you probably dont have a wire locator to follow that fish tape you can have somebody on one end keep hitting the fish tape against whatever is preventing it from going any further while someone else walks around listening for the banging... you should be able to find it easily this way... although the first couple stops could be Ts or elbows

elbee

Senior Member

23

Sunday, February 25th 2007, 7:33pm

I will try this and let you know how it goes.

Many thanks.

elbee

Senior Member

24

Thursday, March 1st 2007, 6:51am

Here is an update. I figured out the first sprinkler in the zone that is not working and I took off the head and put a hose over it. I also undid the union to the valve to see if water would come out. The water came out of every sprinkler in the zone but not out of the pipe leading out of the valve. So I am pretty sure the clog is between this first sprinkler and the valve. Now I have got to get a hold of some fish tape.

drpete3

Supreme Member

Posts: 376

Location: USA

25

Thursday, March 1st 2007, 7:28am

Very good. You obviously almos thave it. Keep going.
Thanks,

Pete

elbee

Senior Member

26

Friday, March 2nd 2007, 11:35am

I tried the fish tape, but it was not pliable enough. It wouldn't push past the first elbow. Do they make a snake that would be thin enough for a 3/4 inch pipe? Or can you think of something else I could try?

Thanks!

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,082

Location: Metro NYC

27

Friday, March 2nd 2007, 2:42pm

Try the backwards flush again, especially if you can cap off or throttle down the other heads on the zone. No snake will deal with these pipes, and the last resort is digging, and replacing pipe and/or fittings.

BSME

Advanced Member

28

Saturday, March 3rd 2007, 7:21am

I would just dig up that elbow and take it apart.... start running it from there. You may have to do it again if you hit a Tee but after a couple holes you should be able to find what's blocking you

elbee

Senior Member

29

Wednesday, March 7th 2007, 8:48am

Ok. Here is another update. I was WAY off with what the problem is. There is a large part of the back yard that is not functioning. I thought because Valve 5 was not working it was the valve that powers the sprinklers that don't work. I was wrong. Valve 5 definitely doesn't work, but I have finally come to the conclusion that it probably worked at one time but is now obsolete. I consulted with my gardner and he showed me more valves that are up in the hill buried underground (6 of them). These are the valves that bring water to the area that currently is not working. Confirmed this by opening the bleed screws. Since the area that I thought was controlled by one valve is actually controlled by 6 valves and none of those valves are working, I concluded that this has to be a wiring problem. Since all 6 zones are not working at the same time, I'm pretty sure it can't be 6 solenoids going bad at one time. I took apart my controller to gain access to the station screw terminals. Based on some research I did, I figured out how to test the controller, but I don't really know exactly what the test results mean. I was told to activate a station and put one lead on the common and the other on the station screw terminal to get a voltage reading. After the reading is confirmed, with the zone still active, put the lead on the other zones to make sure the voltage reading on those zones is zero. So, I activated zone 1 and got a normal voltage reading from zone 1. But with zone 1 still active I placed the lead on station screw 2 and also got a voltage reading. I repeated for zone 3, etc. and got the same result - voltage reading on other zones, when zone 1 is active. What does this mean??

The thing that threw me off about this whole process is that these zones stopped working right after I did work on the pvc pipes. But it appears to be entirely unrelated.

elbee

Senior Member

30

Wednesday, March 7th 2007, 8:56am

repost.

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