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ReignMan

New Member

1

Sunday, August 6th 2017, 10:21pm

Valve rebuild help

Hello all,

Just bought a house with a well fed irrigation system that was inop on day of purchase. After replacing a few heads I had the system running on auto, with no problems.

A few days ago zone 4 ( out of 4 zones) was having low pressure issues. I replaced the solenoid and this solved the problem. However when I was in the box, I noticed that the valve next to the zone 4 valve, for zone 3, was making a very faint whirring sound, like water was running through it, although I did not detect water coming out of any heads. Zone 3 still worked, but still made the sound when shut off via the controller. So I took it apart and noticed that the diaphragm was rotted. Not torn, but the rubber was disintegrating and had a lot of pitting around the bottom ring of the diaphragm. The solenoid for this valve also had a rubber tip that was in the same condition.

I believe the valve is an Irritol anti siphon, with 8 screws around the diaphragm and a solenoid located in the middle of the unit. Light green in color.

I found what looks to be a replacement on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Irritrol-Richdel-100232-Diaphragm-Assembly-for-205-Valves-Complete-Kit-diaphram-/252432402259?epid=1862088646&hash=item3ac624c753:g:drcAAOSwM4xXaHOV

I'm going to replace the solenoid as well. Is there a better supplier out there? Should I replace anything else? Sorry you'll have to copy and paste the image link below. Do the bog box stores carry parts for this or should I use eBay?

https://ibb.co/bPSpNF

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,001

Location: USA

2

Monday, August 7th 2017, 1:55am

You can just buy the whole valve and swap out parts. 205

I'd get a valve with the flow control like the one in the link above. Unless you have an issue with a valve box lid not being able to close because the flow control is taller. Having the flow control makes the valve more functional.

ReignMan

New Member

3

Monday, August 7th 2017, 9:26am

Thanks for your reply!

So if I'm understanding correctly, I can buy the 205 valve assembly, and just swap out the top plate, solenoid and the diaphragm? Instead of just buying the individual components?

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,001

Location: USA

4

Monday, August 7th 2017, 1:39pm

Ok wait a minute. I just looked at your second picture. That's not an Irritrol valve. That's an Orbit/Watermaster type valve.
I was going by the picture you posted of the repair parts. Those will not work.
The thing is with these valves is, they kept redesigning them and the diaphragms aren't compatible from model to model.
If you want to repair that valve you'll need to take it apart and see which diaphragm is inside. Then you'll have to buy a diaphragm and solenoid separate. You might be able to find the whole valve on ebay but you need the exact model. They're right there above ground though. I'd just swap out the whole valve.
Either go with the Orbit valve, an Irritrol 311-A. The ports will be the same width apart. Otherwise you can use any valve and cut the pipe and move it over a tad.

ReignMan

New Member

5

Monday, August 7th 2017, 9:28pm

Well, I bought an irritol 205s valve from a local supplier, and swapped out the top cap, and diaphragm and the solenoid it came with. It all fit right, but now the system has lower pressure ( but does not leak). A few of the rotating heads are just barely working.

No worries on the mis-ID, I appreciate the help.

I'll post a picture of the old diaphragm tomorrow and we'll see what we can come up with. It looks to have a white plastic spline on top that I assume hold the spring in place, and a white screen on the bottom about the size of a quarter.

ReignMan

New Member

6

Monday, August 7th 2017, 9:54pm

Ok here they are.

Sorry I haven't taken the time to learn how to post a pic yet. You'll have to copy and paste I think..

bottom view
https://ibb.co/bBVT1a


Top view
https://ibb.co/d7Uo1a

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,001

Location: USA

7

Monday, August 7th 2017, 10:53pm

You'll have a hard time finding that diaphragm. Even on Ebay. I probably have the kit on my truck and can get you a kit number if you wish.
I'm looking at the picture again. I see some strange piping going on. I'm taking a guess that there used to be inline valves and they whooptydoo'd the pipe to attach the Anit-syphons?
Do you have a back flow device? Maybe just put inlines back in there if you do.
Maybe just rebuild the whole thing. I only see two valves. Put the asv's above grade at least a foot.

ReignMan

New Member

8

Monday, August 7th 2017, 11:20pm

No back flow device that I know of. When this zone shuts off there is a little water that runs out of the other end of this valve along with some gurgling sounds.. If that says anything. None of the others do this. This zone has a few small pop up heads higher than the valve, otherwise, the home is build on a hill and everything else is below it. I'm pretty sure its not up to code, but its supplied by a well that only feeds the irrigation system.

Before next season I'm going to replace all of the valves ( 4) and position them at the correct hight.

I just wanted this zone to stop leaking, I'm more concerned with the other 3 that water the front and back yard. This one just waters the perimeter of the home, which is mostly overlapped by the other three zones.

There are 2 rotary heads in this zone that I feel should be replaced with stationary type (?) pops ups. One 180* and one 45*. If I did this, I feel like there should be enough pressure to work the other heads which are all 180* stationary. Sorry I don't know the correct term. Out of 4 zones and 21 heads, 12 of them are on this zone. I feel that the two rotary heads require a lot more pressure to work and that this zone probably originally had all stationary.

you're right, its all kind of wamperjawed together. I believe its approaching 20 years in age. (When the well was installed, which has never supplied water to anything else)

If you feel like shipping the diaphragm let me know!

Thanks for your help!

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,001

Location: USA

9

Tuesday, August 8th 2017, 1:24am

Nope I'm not shipping it off. I need my stock and I can't replace it easily.
It's a long shot but maybe you can just replace the seat washer. Sometime's I'll take the seat washer off and turn it around because the backside can be in great shape. That washer looks fried though and there might be creases in the back of that washer from the plastic even if it's useable.
Tell you what, I'll go out to my truck now and dig around. I have a big box full of kits. Maybe I can get you a part number.

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,001

Location: USA

10

Tuesday, August 8th 2017, 1:57am

Here you go. I had to take it out of the original packaging to make sure the bottom was the same. I had others where it was different.[/url[url=https://postimg.org/image/4s9qj2lit/][/url[url=https://postimg.org/image/heod9pctn/][/url[url=https://postimg.org/image/ufebittfp/]
I don't understand what's up with these links. I've tried three different file sharing sites.
Try this on Chrome. Right click then click on "open url". For me that's opening up different tabs at the same time and each tab has a different pic.
Otherwise, the number on the bottom left of the package is. 57046. It's a Watermaster diaphragm repair kit.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "mrfixit" (Aug 8th 2017, 2:14am)


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