You are not logged in.

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

aerodan1

Active Member

1

Wednesday, October 7th 2015, 4:26pm

Valves wont open automatically

Hi,

Could anyone help me figure out the normal setup when using a standard controller (Rainbird 4EISMT) so that the valves will open automatically (currently I have to manually open the solenoid to get the valves to work)? I set an individual zone (Hunter ICV 101G valves) to water and left the solenoid for the valve in the off position (I did leave the master valve solenoid in the on position) but the solenoid doesn't open the valve on its own. I have been running around the yard like a madman manually opening and closing each valve (by turning the solenoid a quarter to 1/2 turn to open and throttling up the flow control) to water my newly seeded 15,000 sq. feet of yard. Better than dragging a sprinkler around everywhere but I don't have time to keep doing this! Thanks,

Dan

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "aerodan1" (Oct 7th 2015, 6:09pm)


Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,154

Location: Metro NYC

2

Wednesday, October 7th 2015, 6:07pm

Why isn't the master valve solenoid connected to the controller?

aerodan1

Active Member

3

Wednesday, October 7th 2015, 6:10pm

It is connected and works - if I manually close the master valve solenoid no water is available for all downstream valves. What is the normal operation when using the controller - does the solenoid actuate itself from the off position to the on position to open the valve or does it stay in the off position and operates the plunger without physically moving the whole solenoid?
Why isn't the master valve solenoid connected to the controller?

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "aerodan1" (Oct 7th 2015, 6:51pm)


Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,154

Location: Metro NYC

4

Wednesday, October 7th 2015, 7:07pm

Just to head off any wasted time, confirm that you didn't install the master valve backwards.

aerodan1

Active Member

5

Wednesday, October 7th 2015, 10:06pm

Yes, confirmed.
Just to head off any wasted time, confirm that you didn't install the master valve backwards.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,154

Location: Metro NYC

6

Thursday, October 8th 2015, 7:08am

It's a threaded-body master valve?

SunCoLawns

Advanced Member

Posts: 111

Location: Omaha, Nebraska, USA

7

Thursday, October 8th 2015, 7:48am

I'm not quite clear on what you are asking. Are the valves not working through the timer, or do you not have the timer hooked up? The valves should all be closed with their bleed screws and solenoids tightened and their flow control open. The solenoids should be on the downstream side of the valve.

aerodan1

Active Member

8

Thursday, October 8th 2015, 9:18am

Yes, its a Hunter ICV 101G, it has female threads on either end.
It's a threaded-body master valve?

aerodan1

Active Member

9

Thursday, October 8th 2015, 9:24am

Timer and all valves are wired up, so the valves don't work through the timer - i.e. if I leave the solenoid tightened (closed position), bleeder screws closed, flow control open (solenoids on downstream side of valve), and then tell it to run zone 1, 2 etc. nothing happens.
I'm not quite clear on what you are asking. Are the valves not working through the timer, or do you not have the timer hooked up? The valves should all be closed with their bleed screws and solenoids tightened and their flow control open. The solenoids should be on the downstream side of the valve.

SunCoLawns

Advanced Member

Posts: 111

Location: Omaha, Nebraska, USA

10

Thursday, October 8th 2015, 10:26am

So it sounds like you have either a controller problem or a wiring problem. If it is a wiring problem it is likely going to be with the common wire or the master valve. Do the zones work from the timer if you leave the master valve open? If not, then it is not the master valve. If you have a multi-meter you could check voltages at the controller. If not you could take one of your solenoids out and hook the leads up to the controller to see if it is working. If it is, check your wiring. If you have a spare wire you might try switching that out with the common.

Rate this thread