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SLMC

New Member

1

Wednesday, July 29th 2015, 4:00pm

Hunter XC 6 zone system - self test shows no issues, but Ohm meter disagrees

System is 7 years old. Last fall it was fully functional. This year not so much. Voltage is good to the controller and all valves. With the master open, I can manually open 5 of 6 valves and run those zones. At this time, I can't find the zone 6 valve. Ohm meter shows proper resistance on zones 3,4,5. I'm going to double check, but I believe it's showing "OL" for the master,1,2, and 6. This suggests a broken wire, but shouldn't the controller self test show that? The self-test feature shows no issues at all. Also, master,1 & 2 valves are all located on the same side of the house. Is it logical to assume that the zone 6 valve is located in that area as well?

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,198

Location: Metro NYC

2

Wednesday, July 29th 2015, 5:33pm

trust your multimeter more than you trust a controller

SLMC

New Member

3

Thursday, July 30th 2015, 2:21pm

Next question - the bundle of wires at the controller is multi-color, like thermostat wiring. The wiring at the valves is all red & white. Am I missing something? Is there nest of wires where each color has been spliced to a generic red wire? One would hope that it's in a box, but I haven't seen it. This is maybe not the Cadillac of irrigation installs.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,198

Location: Metro NYC

4

Friday, July 31st 2015, 7:49am

You may have a master valve, in its own valve box, where the wires transition to heavier-gauge white and red, which go out into the field, each valve in its own small round box.

SLMC

New Member

5

Friday, July 31st 2015, 1:55pm

I have a master in a round box, between the main water line and the backflow preventer. Wires to it are just red & white. I do have 6 zone valves in individual round boxes. If I lost the master & 1,2, and 6 at the same time, I'm guessing that transition point is very likely the source of the issue. The controller will run 3,4 & 5 if I open the master manually. So start digging where the wires exit the garage & hopefully the transition point is close?

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,198

Location: Metro NYC

6

Saturday, August 1st 2015, 5:57am

post a photo of this 'backflow preventer'
you have the right idea about the wire transition

SLMC

New Member

7

Tuesday, August 4th 2015, 5:50pm

Photos to come. I'm getting close to the transition point of color to red zone wiring. I'm pretty sure it's just buried in the dirt & not enclosed or protected in any way. Hoping that will reveal some obvious issues... *edit* Can't seem to attach photos. Wire transition is just a nest of wires buried in the yard. Field wires for the three working zones are all routed to the left, where they would continue along the side of the house & meet those 3 valves. There is also a common wire routed to the left. Field wires for the non-working zones are all routed to the right - so they apparently go under the fence and driveway & continue along the other side of the house to meet those valves. I also found a loose piece of white wire that looks like the common wire. Not sure if that should be connected or if it's a random bit of scrap wire.

This post has been edited 2 times, last edit by "SLMC" (Aug 5th 2015, 12:39pm)


SLMC

New Member

8

Wednesday, August 5th 2015, 12:55pm

Sorry for the stream of consciousness posts. I'm thinking if the system was wired with a set of 3 valves on one side of the house & 4 on the other, then I should have a common wire run for each side. It would explain why the controller self test didn't find any issues. Worth a shot-
*edit* BOOM. Done. Problem solved. Thinking I might go ahead and recap all my transition wires and maybe put that in a housing of some sort.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "SLMC" (Aug 5th 2015, 1:37pm)


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