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New Member


Thursday, May 21st 2015, 1:24am

Valve selection recommendations?

I am updating my sprinkler cans and nozzles to a hopefully more robust, consistent, and water efficient system.

The back yard is 55 feet across and 65 feet deep, rectangluar. The front yard is 25
feet across and 33 feet deep, rectangular. Property distance from front to back is
roughly 100 feet. Elevation change is between 2-3 feet, high in
the back, low in the front, flat and steady grade from front to back.

Climate is semi-arid, with 5-7 inches of rainfall a year, temperatures range throughout the year between 5-105 F on average, with lows running to -15 and highs running to 115 on rare occasions. Low humidity. Daytime wind averages 10-15 mph during the summer.

Currently, the system consists of six valves (Hardie 2400S valves), running Rainbird impact sprinklers (caps broken off, and I'm getting tired of the cans filling with debris), and an organic mix of Rainbird/Toro/Orbit pop-up sprayers. According to the city, the water pressure for our neighborhood runs 78-81 PSI, but I need to take a pressure gauge and confirm this. I plan on replacing the impact sprinklers with Hunter PGP-Ultras and the sprayers with MP Rotators.

I am looking into Hunter brand products to replace the valves, particularly the PGV-100/101 or 100/101JT because I would like to knock the pressure down to 40 or 50 psi for specific lines, and the ACCU-SYNC seems to be the only option I've stumbled across to do this. Though, as long as I can find a reliable valve that can have the pressure be adjusted, I'm happy.

So, my questions are, what's the best valve for running PGP Ultras and MP Rotators at their recommended pressures, do I need flow control, and if my goal is to be able to remove/repair/replace the blasted valves conveniently (read: with minimal digging, cutting, and plastic welding) in the future, what is the best set-up? Male X Male threads on the valve? Female X Female threads? Is it even possible to set up the pipe/valve connection with a threaded system for convenient valve installation and removal that screws/unscrews without leaking at the connection after install?

Looking forward to others' greater experience.

Thank you, and take care!


Supreme Member

Posts: 5,288

Location: Metro NYC


Thursday, May 21st 2015, 7:14am

You don't really have enough water pressure to justify pressure regulating valves. Your existing valves are reliable enough. Unfortunately, they are one of the few designs that don't easily convert to flow-control operation, as both a new bonnet and a new stainless steel tube are needed to replace the old ones.


New Member


Thursday, June 4th 2015, 9:25pm

Thank you for your response. So, presuming pressure at ~80 psi isn't an issue, but flow control is, what would flow control do for the situation (other than, I assume, simply tweak the amount of water running through the valve to reduce the amount of pressure/output at the sprinkler head)?

Out of curiosity, what are the pros and cons comparing threaded valves with male inlets vs. those with female inlets (structural reliability, leakage, ease of installation and removal). Eventually, the Hardie valves are going to need to be replaced (I presume they're 20+ years old), and I've been looking at the manifolds and adapters wondering which way is the best way to go to attach a valve.


Supreme Member

Posts: 5,288

Location: Metro NYC


Friday, June 5th 2015, 9:17am

You can still do a "guts swap" to the old 2400 valves, in order to get flow control. It's just more work, and a bit more care is needed to remove and install the new center tube, but pros were doing this 30 years ago when the original design of the 2400 was modified.

As for pressure in the zones, you are supposed to be achieving that by way of your designs. Rotor heads with interchangeable nozzles let you tweak zone pressures.



Posts: 2,316

Location: USA


Friday, June 5th 2015, 1:18pm

You might want to look into pressure regulated pro sprays for the mp rotators.
Watch the videos.

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