You are not logged in.

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

guidera

New Member

Posts: 2

Location: USA

1

Friday, July 22nd 2005, 5:26pm

Help in designing a system

I have read most postings looking for guidence and decided to post my project in order to get your feedback. I see that many of you are willing to share your knowledge and wisdom. Any and all sudgestions are very welcomed.

I have a commercial building in S.C. located in an industrial park next to a 1 acre 6ft deep water retention pond. Water is clear and harbors fish and wildlife. I do plan to do a water test. Soil is very sandy. I have 3 shrubury beds 4' x 100' and a 1600 sq ft lawn. I had planned to install 3 drip runs and one line with 4 sprinklers.

Here are my plans
I have a 1hp McDonald pump from an existing sprinkler project. Lake is 60' away and 5 ft uplift.

Install the pump in building in order to minimize weather related problems.
use 1 1/2 sched 40 intake line to lake
use foot valve with screen in lake (does it have to be vertical or can i use it horizontally??)
build manifold with 1 1/2 pvc to 4 valves.
Do I need to install a small tank on pump to minimize priming?
4 station clock
1" pvc to 4 impulse for lawn (noise is no problem and I feel they may require less maintenance that rotors) about 150 ft run.
3 landscaped beds would get 3/4 pvc to black poly with drip emiters built in. Beds have a mixture of commercial plants such as pittosporums, Indian hawthorne and hollies.

Your input is welcomed
Jose Guidera in hot and sticky Conway, SC

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,021

Location: Metro NYC

2

Friday, July 22nd 2005, 6:44pm

Bringing non-potable water into a building could be a real problem. (Heavy fines) Look for a way to keep the pump outdoors. As for the pipe sizes and layout, only you know what performance the pump is capable of. Some 1 HP pumps could justify larger pipes, like a 2 inch suction line. Drip irrigation from lake water is not a great idea. Better to figure on spray heads, so you can minimize the filtration you need. And find a good intake strainer for the suction line in the pond, and you can trade the foot valve for a check valve at the pump. A pressure tank might be useful, if you intend for the pump to be controlled by a pressure switch.

guidera

New Member

Posts: 2

Location: USA

3

Friday, July 29th 2005, 4:11pm

Thank you for your imput. I agree with you about bringing into the building non potable water. I will place the pump outside next to the building and build a small enclosure to protect it from the weather. Also a heating unit may help it weather the winters. Thanks

grph

Active Member

Posts: 8

Location: USA

4

Monday, September 5th 2005, 3:08pm

I also live in SC. I pump from a lake with the pump located on the seawall. I had installed unions on both sides of the pump and electrical is cord and plug connected.
When it begins to get cool I unscrew the unions, unplug the plug and take the pump inside for the winter. Make sure any above ground piping is clear of water.

Rate this thread