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Tom

Supreme Member

11

Wednesday, March 21st 2007, 11:35am

765-1 is a 1" model

Taxman71

Active Member

12

Tuesday, April 24th 2007, 8:06am

Follow-up:

I ordered an entirely new 765-1 for the same price as the replacement bonnet and poppet, replaced both on my installed 765 and had things working in around 2 minutes.

Thanks for everyone's help. I figure a pro would have charged me $150 minimum for such an easy task.

Now on to repair the small leak in my PVC where I nicked it with my gas trimmer....

SprinklerGuy

Supreme Member

13

Tuesday, April 24th 2007, 8:58am

I buy poppet bonnet kits for less than 35 dollars...and the entire assembly is 65ish...makes no sense for me to buy the entire units....

As for the consumer pricing...I have no doubt that you pay the same...and I'm glad you got it up and running..

FWIW....I would have charged you about 125 to replace poppet / bonnet and about 185 to replace the entire unit...
Sprinkler Solutions, Inc.
Arizona and Colorado
www.sprinklersolutions.net

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,063

Location: Metro NYC

14

Tuesday, April 24th 2007, 12:40pm

With the latest price increases, I'll be charging over $200 to replace a PVB.

SprinklerGuy

Supreme Member

15

Thursday, April 26th 2007, 3:31am

Getting close to that myself...but at 185 I'm still making 115-120 bucks in 1/2 to 45 minutes....I wish I could do them all day!
Sprinkler Solutions, Inc.
Arizona and Colorado
www.sprinklersolutions.net

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,063

Location: Metro NYC

16

Thursday, April 26th 2007, 5:53am

Now, make it one of those jobs where I have to replace a brass AVB with a PVB, and make up for the mismatch in dimensions, and it might go another hour. Ka-ching! I think if I were in the foothills, with all of the freezeups, I'd go back to using union fittings on PVB installs.

Taxman711

Unregistered

17

Tuesday, March 11th 2008, 4:40am

Update: Well, this year the poppett/bonnett look fine, but the
the bottom of the backflow has a 2-3 inch split just above where it
connects to the PVC coming up out of the ground and is spewing
water. I have no idea what caused pressure enough to do that over
the winter as I winterized long before it got cold. Maybe I
should just pay a pro to winterize for now on?



I guess it was a good thing I bought an entire Febco 765-1 last year,
maybe I can use it and salvage the poppett/bonnett I used for
replacement parts last year.

HooKooDooKu

Supreme Member

18

Wednesday, March 12th 2008, 12:31pm

Update: Well, this year the poppett/bonnett look fine, but the
the bottom of the backflow has a 2-3 inch split just above where it
connects to the PVC coming up out of the ground and is spewing
water. I have no idea what caused pressure enough to do that over
the winter as I winterized long before it got cold. Maybe I
should just pay a pro to winterize for now on?



I guess it was a good thing I bought an entire Febco 765-1 last year,
maybe I can use it and salvage the poppett/bonnett I used for
replacement parts last year.


Given that the backflow is made of brass, I don't see how water pressure could account for the split. Only water still in that part of the pipes freezing over the winter is the only thing I can think of to account for that sort of damage.

If I understand you correctly, this is the pipe leading TO the backflow. If so, what (if anything) did you do to remove water from the pipes BEFORE the backflow. This sort of seems to be a tricky area as plumbing codes say you can't place a connection point before the backflow that you could use to blow out that section of the pipe. In some places, I've seen suggestions of annual removal of the backflow. In my case, I have a filter installed upstream of the backflow. I open the filter and get the water before the backflow out there. To insure I get all of it back down to below ground level, I have to siphon out some of the water through the filter openning.

Taxman711

Unregistered

19

Tuesday, March 18th 2008, 4:08am

Update:
Well, this year the poppett/bonnett look fine, but the
the bottom of the backflow has a 2-3 inch split just above where it
connects to the PVC coming up out of the ground and is spewing
water. I have no idea what caused pressure enough to do that over
the winter as I winterized long before it got cold. Maybe I
should just pay a pro to winterize for now on?



Got it fixed this weekend, replaced the entire 765 using the whole
assembly I bought last year. Turns out, when I winterized, I
closed the ball valve going into the PVB completely. Although I
opened the test cocks, water still existed below that point and
froze. Next year, I will either have to blow out the water coming
into the PVB or install drip drains to release the inflow water when I
shut the water off.



At least I am learning a thing or two about plumbing, etc.



I guess it was a good thing I bought an entire Febco 765-1 last year,
maybe I can use it and salvage the poppett/bonnett I used for
replacement parts last year.


Given
that the backflow is made of brass, I don't see how water pressure
could account for the split. Only water still in that part of the pipes
freezing over the winter is the only thing I can think of to account
for that sort of damage.

If I understand you correctly, this is
the pipe leading TO the backflow. If so, what (if anything) did you do
to remove water from the pipes BEFORE the backflow. This sort of seems
to be a tricky area as plumbing codes say you can't place a connection
point before the backflow that you could use to blow out that section
of the pipe. In some places, I've seen suggestions of annual removal of
the backflow. In my case, I have a filter installed upstream of the
backflow. I open the filter and get the water before the backflow out
there. To insure I get all of it back down to below ground level, I
have to siphon out some of the water through the filter
openning.

Taxman711

Unregistered

20

Tuesday, March 18th 2008, 10:49am

(messed up earlier post)

Got it fixed this weekend, replaced the entire 765 using the whole
assembly I bought last year. Turns out, when I winterized, I
closed the ball valve going into the PVB completely. Although I
opened the test cocks, water still existed below that point and
froze. Next year, I will either have to blow out the water coming
into the PVB or install drip drains to release the inflow water when I
shut the water off.

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