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Tuesday, June 7th 2005, 9:25pm

Hunter Wireless Rain Clik Sensor Help

Just purchased one and I noticed that the specs for the transmitting range is "up to 300 feet line of sight".

I think this is misleading; doesn't "line of sight" mean that transmitter A has to have a clear view of transmitter B, with no visual obstructions, such as building walls?

Would I not have a problem using this sensor then, as my timer box is in the basement, and I plan to mount the sensor outside up on a gutter on the other side of the house-keeping within 300 feet, but "non-line of sight"?

Sorry if this sounds silly, but I would like to be sure it would work the way I plan, before I go ahead and install the sensor.

Thank you.


Supreme Member

Posts: 5,287

Location: Metro NYC


Wednesday, June 8th 2005, 5:03am

Not visual obstructions so much as 'radio obstructions' - a wood frame house is no big deal, but concrete block walls are. Mount the receiver high, if that gets you some relief from masonry walls, and try the transmitter in different locations. (use a rubberband to hold the detector in tripped mode, and check back at the timer to see if it received the signal) I'm not a fan of gutter mounts, as much as areas more accessible for maintenance, like maybe the rail of a deck, or a wood fence.


Wednesday, June 8th 2005, 9:12am

I contacted Hunter Industries and they informed that because my timer is in the basement, the sensor will not work if I mount the receiver next to the timer. The signal will be obstructed by both dirt and foundation wall. Therefore, the receiver must be mounted outside somewhere and wired back to the timer with 4 conductor wire, according to Hunter.

Bottom line: this "wireless" sensor will only work as it is advertised(ease of installation, 300 ft. distance, etc.)if your timer is located either in the garage or outside the house.

When I pointed out to the Hunter technician that perhaps this "point" should have been made a little bit more clearer in their advertisements, he accused me of 'splitting hairs". He then said it should be assumed that one should know how wireless signals work.

I guess I have no choice but to now install the receiver outside somewhere. Kind of defeats the whole reason why I purchased this product in the first place.


Active Member

Posts: 7

Location: USA


Wednesday, June 8th 2005, 11:23am

Sorry to jump in, but why not actually TEST to see if it works? There isn't much of an install really with the wireless Rain-Clik. I'm a try it an see kind of guy!

I just installed my first system and used the Pro-C controller mounted in the basement utility room with the wireless Rain-Clik sensor mounted on the opposite eave of the house which is two-stories, full attic, and 10-foot basement. I mounted the receiver just above the controller but it's still ~2.5 feet below grade on a 10-inch thick poured basement wall. No problems with reception at all and I'm certain it's because the radio signal can pass through the wood framing. Had a wicked storm on Monday than dumped over 1.5 inches of rain and the sensor proved to work as it should.


Wednesday, June 8th 2005, 11:52am


Thank you for your reply. Your set-up sounds similar to what I want to do. My 3 bedroom, 2 story colonial with full attic and 10 foot basement is similar to yours as well!

The Hunter technician told me to not waste my time trying to use it the way you and I have/want to. He "guaranteed me that the signal will never get through to the basement". (foundation and dirt obstruction).

Anyway, you have encouraged me to go ahead and install the sensor the way I originally intended, which is how you have yours set-up.

Quick question: was there a specific reason why you mounted the receiver above the controller? (get more height for better signal reception).

Thanks again!


Supreme Member

Posts: 5,287

Location: Metro NYC


Wednesday, June 8th 2005, 2:09pm

You do have to allow for the fact that the largest sprinkler markets are in warmer climates where they don't have basements. (so their tech guys might have some trouble visualizing basement installations) I once tried a test installation that had two block walls in the way, and it was no go. The detector wound up on the deck railing, eliminating the masonry obstructions. I consider a rain detector an item that may need replacing. In the case of the wireless ones, they will need replacing, once the battery gives out.


Advanced Member

Posts: 101

Location: Canada


Wednesday, June 8th 2005, 3:07pm

I've mounted about 20 wireless sensors (mainly Rainbird) in the last year and they all worked fine when the receiver and controller were installed in basements. I only had one that I had to jubble mounting locations with to get a good signal, and that was because the receiver was surrounded by metal ductwork in a tight crawlspace. Definitely try to see if you can make it work for you; the odds are in your favour


Wednesday, June 8th 2005, 7:15pm

Well, as all you kind folks have pointed out to me, I gave it a try tonight and lo and behold, it works just fine, with the receiver in the basement.
Thank you all for sharing your ideas and suggestions with me. Up until the first response from Wet_Boots, I was convinced that I had made a mistake purchasing this product, especially after speaking with the Hunter tech.

One final question for Wet-Boots: The battery, which I believe is designed to last ten years, is not replaceble once it wears out?


Supreme Member

Posts: 5,287

Location: Metro NYC


Thursday, June 9th 2005, 2:42am

The Hunter circuitry (with battery) is potted with waterproof compound. No repair is intended. I think it has to be this way, to avoid failures from corroded battery contacts.



Posts: 28

Location: USA


Tuesday, November 8th 2005, 10:38am

<b>The Hunter Rain-Clik allows for battery replacement:</b>
Battery Life: The Wireless Rain-Clik transmitter is designed to work daily for up to 12 years with the maintenance-free battery. The sealed unit is available as a replacement part. Should you need to change the transmitter the receiver will have to learn the new transmitter address. There is no required maintenance for the unit.

<b>The Rain Bird Wireless Rain and/or Rain/Freeze Sensor allows for battery replacement:</b>
Changing Transmitter Batteries: (Requires two - CR2032 batteries)
1. Remove two screws located on top of the transmitter.
2. Remove top half of housing.
3. If rectangular seal does not stay assembled to top half of housing, remove from bottom half.
4. Carefully push up on the antenna to release transmitter board.
5. Use a screw driver to slide batteries out of battery clip.
6. Slide in new batteries with the "+" side on top. (NOTE: Do not push the small "SW1" button on the bottom of the transmitter board. If pushed, the transmitter will go to sleep after 10 hours).
7. Re-insert transmitter board into bottom half. (Note: Pay careful attention to the alignment of the seals on the bottom of the board. The bottom of each seal should be positioned into the appropriate hole prior to pushing the board fully into place).
8. Ensure rectangular seal is securely replaced on the underside of the top half of the housing. (NOTE: Press down on the metal collar to ensure that the seal has snapped into its proper place).
9. Re-assemble the two halves of the housing ensuring that the button actuators are aligned. (NOTE: An arrow will be formed on the outside end of the housing if the halves are aligned properly).
10. Re-install screws.

<b>The Toro Wireless Rain and/or Rain/Freeze Sensor allows for battery replacement:</b>
Sensor Module Battery Replacement:
1. Unscrew and remove the bottom cap from the sensor housing.
2. Grasping the edges of the circuit board assembly, carefully slide the circuit board assembly out of the housing.
3. Remove the battery cover and batteries.
4.Insert two new 3V CR2032 (or equivalent) batteries with positive (+) side facing toward the retaining clip.
5. Install the battery cover.
6. Align the circuit board assembly with the housing guide slots and carefully insert it into the housing. The circuit board will fit only when oriented properly. The bottom edge of the circuit board and housing will be even when fully inserted.
7. Thread the antenna wire through the hole in bottom cap. Screw the cap onto the housing and tighten by hand.

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