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foobarro

Active Member

11

Thursday, May 20th 2004, 5:03pm

OK, will give that a try and report back. Thanks again!

foobarro

Active Member

12

Saturday, May 22nd 2004, 2:00am

That did it! Thanks very much mrwettech, your advise was a great help!! I really appreciate it...

BSME

Advanced Member

13

Monday, May 24th 2004, 8:13am

Sorry for bringing this back to top but I just read all of this and really think mrwettech deserves a gold star for being so patient... getting all the info... and helping a guy out... atta boy...

drpete3

Supreme Member

Posts: 375

Location: USA

14

Tuesday, May 25th 2004, 8:14am

I agree.
Thanks,

Pete

TYGVR

Active Member

15

Wednesday, June 1st 2005, 3:57pm

I am also a novice in the same situation. I figured out how the 765 works but I have gate valves not ball valves. When I tighten these and the water doesn't stop for either the inlet or outlet. This may sound ignorant but do gate valves work the same as other valves righty tighty lefty loosey. The problem I am having is when I get the 765 to work (by taking the bell off and pulling up the plunger while my wife turns the main on in the basement)one of my zones seems to be stuck on and I can't trouble shoot the zone because I have to keep running into the basemet to turn the main off and on. Any suggestions?

RidgeRun05

Supreme Member

Posts: 314

Location: USA

16

Wednesday, June 1st 2005, 6:54pm

Yes, you are correct. These gate valves are the same as any other valve, right closes the valve, and left opens it. Gate valves are notorious for failing. It is possible that the valve is stripped, and no longer opening or closing, although the wheel will still spin. How old is the backflow unit, and/or valves you are using. You may have to replace these gate valves here before you go any further with your troubleshooting. If you are going to replace the valves, I would replace them with ball valves. Much higher quality, and will last much longer.
Tony Posey
Ridge Run Landscapes

TYGVR

Active Member

17

Thursday, June 2nd 2005, 5:20am

Just moved in last june. System worked fine last year but never used the gate valves. The controller box is an old discontinued rainbird crc6 so the valves are probably shot. Any chance of repairing the valves? There is no union so I think I would have to cut the nipples (or copper pipe) to replace. I am thinking of having a company out to repair it. Any idea on what it should cost? And by the way when this company blew out my system last year he said I had a missing sprinkler head. I never noticed anything all summer. It turns out that I think he actually blew it off because my neighbor found it in her bushes this spring. How should I approach this?

RidgeRun05

Supreme Member

Posts: 314

Location: USA

18

Thursday, June 2nd 2005, 6:36am

I would be calling the company who winterized out to have a look at it, and I would highly suggest you be stern about them replacing the sprinkler head, any reputable company wouldn't have a problem replacing it. I also wouldn't call that company back to do service anymore, if they do not know how to properly winterize a system. As for your backflow, it is probably a good idea to have a plumber come out and fix the valves if it is copper and they are soldered in place. Plumbers in our area run anywhere from $60-80 an hour plus parts. Good luck with your system.
Tony Posey
Ridge Run Landscapes

TYGVR

Active Member

19

Thursday, June 2nd 2005, 7:18am

Thanks for the advice!!!
I can solder (sweat) the copper but should I use a union or just replace it the way it was without a union?

RidgeRun05

Supreme Member

Posts: 314

Location: USA

20

Thursday, June 2nd 2005, 5:06pm

That is completely up to you, if any further repair issues come up, it will be easier to change out with a union, but they are also more prone to leaking than just soldering the joint. The choice is yours.
Tony Posey
Ridge Run Landscapes

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