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cjosvai

New Member

11

Wednesday, May 8th 2019, 5:30pm

Okay. What am I looking for when I open the valve back up? And then how should I proceed? Just re-assemble?

THanks!

cjosvai

New Member

12

Wednesday, May 8th 2019, 7:15pm

So took it apart and everything seemed fine. Put it all back together, reconnected the wires and still nothing when zone 4's turn comes up on the controller. When i open the bleeder screw, the zone fully engages. When I manually turn on the zone with the solenoid, i get full pressure. I have tried 3 different solenoids as well and nothing is engaging the zone. My only other thoughts are that something is not working from the control panel and I am going to have to get a multimeter to test. At this point, may have to call on a company because I am at a complete loss out there yet again.

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,367

Location: USA

13

Wednesday, May 8th 2019, 10:52pm

Try this Click on me.

See if you can activate the solenoid using three 9 volt batteries. Do it at the valve.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,326

Location: Metro NYC

14

Thursday, May 9th 2019, 12:36pm

Try this Click on me.

See if you can activate the solenoid using three 9 volt batteries. Do it at the valve.
That 'activator' might better be made from only two 9-volt batteries. Solenoids can have a must-operate spec of 18 VAC, and one manufacturer gave a spec of their valve solenoids being operable with 12 VDC (for solar-recharged lead/acid battery-powered controllers)

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,367

Location: USA

15

Thursday, May 9th 2019, 1:51pm

Try this Click on me.

See if you can activate the solenoid using three 9 volt batteries. Do it at the valve.
That 'activator' might better be made from only two 9-volt batteries. Solenoids can have a must-operate spec of 18 VAC, and one manufacturer gave a spec of their valve solenoids being operable with 12 VDC (for solar-recharged lead/acid battery-powered controllers)



Then why are controllers transformers 24 volts? Maybe the manufacturer means a minimum of 18V.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,326

Location: Metro NYC

16

Thursday, May 9th 2019, 3:14pm


Then why are controllers transformers 24 volts? Maybe the manufacturer means a minimum of 18V.
The idea is to allow for some voltage drop in system wiring, which was more of a thing when solenoids drew more current than they do today. "Must operate" does mean a minimum to get solenoid operation.

I have operated valves from a 12 volt lantern battery, and I use a pair of 9-volt batteries in my own homemade 'activator' of batteries, alligator clips and a toggle switch.

cjosvai

New Member

17

Thursday, May 9th 2019, 3:23pm

So here is the latest on my issue with Zone 4. I used a multimeter today to check all the electrical. The solenoid checks out fine so does power to the control box and each of the 5 zones I tested. When detaching the common wire from the control box and then testing the zone in question with the multimeter, I got no reading. Tells me that there is an issue somewhere in the wire from the control box to the valve. Just for S and Giggles, I tried switching the wire for zone 5 with the one for zone 4 (green for brown) but still get nothing at zone 4. Does this likely get us to the conclusion that there is an issue with the wires that run from the control box to the solenoid? Somewhere in the route outside there must be a disconnection. Any ideas on best fix? I have so many zone boxes all over the yard.

cjosvai

New Member

18

Tuesday, May 14th 2019, 3:18pm

So I found out that the problem was between the controller and the valve. Rather than waste time looking/digging to find the break in the wire, I connected new 18 gauge wire to the correct zone wire (brown) matching the malfunctioning zone, and boom! All worked. Buried the line, problem solved.

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