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bbdcjb

New Member

Posts: 2

Location: pueblo colorado

1

Monday, May 6th 2019, 9:02am

valve wont shut off

I have irrotrol 2700 series anti-siphon valves that wont shut off. i have changed the diaphram and solenoid and still stays on when zone changes. i have changed zone wiring and still no. there doesn't appear to be any noticeable problem with the valve body. they are the threaded cap model no screws on bonnet. i have 2 valves that are doing this. any thing i can try or any idea of the problem? the zone appears to be trying to shut off but when the next zone comes on it starts back up before shutting off completely. also i can get it to shut off by tapping it with screw driver. i also throttled the valve and that didnt work. just replaced the valves thank you everyone.

This post has been edited 2 times, last edit by "bbdcjb" (May 10th 2019, 11:12pm)


mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,367

Location: USA

2

Monday, May 6th 2019, 12:43pm

Take the valve apart and see if all the pieces are in there. There should be a spring and the support along with the diaphragm.
Make sure the solenoids are snug clockwise.
Flush out the valves when you have them taken apart. Could be debris in there.
That's about it unless you've installed the valves backwards.

bbdcjb

New Member

Posts: 2

Location: pueblo colorado

3

Monday, May 6th 2019, 12:56pm

tried all that no missing parts spring is in place solenoid is snug flushed the system made sure all orifices in bonnet were clear everything i can think of. i took and swapped parts from working valve with nonworking valve and nothing changed. the same valve did the same thing and the one i swapped parts with worked. it has to be the valve body right? even tho i see no damage to the valve body. these are existing valves 16yrs old.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "bbdcjb" (May 6th 2019, 1:01pm)


mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,367

Location: USA

4

Monday, May 6th 2019, 7:44pm

Even though I never see that valve body crack, it is 16 years old. Could be a crack in there somewhere.
I think there's only one option left and you know what that is.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,326

Location: Metro NYC

5

Tuesday, May 7th 2019, 5:23am

At 10+ years of valve age, and nothing looking out of sorts, a generic best guess and obvious maintenance procedure is to replace the diaphragm assemblies. Doing all of them at once gives you the benefit of a restarting the clock of system valve life.

Aside from that obvious step, it wouldn't hurt to have a spare 2700 valve or two on hand, so you can swap bonnets and vacuum breaker covers when need arises,

Note that there are two different series of 2700 valves. The 2700-APR series has a bonnet held in place with screws. The 2700-DPR has a bonnet held in place with a plastic cover ring (also called a "jar top") - They do not use the same diaphragm assemblies.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "Wet_Boots" (May 7th 2019, 5:33am)


mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,367

Location: USA

6

Wednesday, May 8th 2019, 12:56am

Unless someone's taken the metering pin out, the APR diaphragm wont go into a DPR valve. That could be the guy's problem. I've never seen it done but supposing someone bought the wrong diaphragms and pulled the pin to make them fit.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,326

Location: Metro NYC

7

Wednesday, May 8th 2019, 9:23am

Fan mail from some flounder?




Quoted from "bbdcjb"

follow up question

you replied to my post on valves staying on you said "Note that there are two different series of 2700 valves. The 2700-APR series has a bonnet held in place with screws. The 2700-DPR has a bonnet held in place with a plastic cover ring (also called a "jar top") - They do not use the same diaphragm assemblies. this may have happened will the APR diaphram fit in the DPR valve body and could it cause the valve to not shut off? i have the DPR valves and also i can get them to shut off by tapping the valve on diaphragm side with a screw driver. you help is very much appreciated


Now that we know that the OP has the DPR model, we can combine that fact with a location in a freezing climate. The faulty valves may have some freeze damage that won't show, being that it will be in the form of the metal tubes in the valve bodies warped or swollen from freezing water. The cure is a complete "guts swap" with a new 2700DPR, including the metal tube. (and no, you can't buy the tube as a separate part)

It might be simpler to replace the entire valve. If you go that route, the APR model would be a better choice, especially since it has a flow control that you don't need a screwdriver to operate.

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