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NABRIL

Active Member

1

Friday, May 22nd 2015, 8:14am

issue with hydrotek 6000 valve opening both zones

I have a Hydrotek6000 indexing valve feeding 2 zones (1-rotors, 2-sprays), and I have an Intermatic mechanical timer.

On fairly frequent occasion I will see that both zones are receiving water (rotors and sprays). Or, if I manually turn on the pump, I will see water come out of both zones.
What can cause this? Dirt/sediment in the valve chamber? Something is worn out? The valve is 3 years old.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,240

Location: Metro NYC

2

Friday, May 22nd 2015, 8:56am

Give it a good cleaning. Be certain the zones meet a minimum flow rate spec that valves like this demand.

NABRIL

Active Member

3

Friday, May 22nd 2015, 1:42pm

Give it a good cleaning. Be certain the zones meet a minimum flow rate spec that valves like this demand.

THANKS BOOTS. How do I do that (meet the minimum flow)?

p.s. where do I click so that I get alerted via email of replies? I can't find it.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "NABRIL" (May 22nd 2015, 2:02pm)


NABRIL

Active Member

4

Monday, April 4th 2016, 12:25pm

I resurface this post because my issue continues. It stops happening for some time, and then it surfaces again. I've taken the valve components out and cleaned them frequently to make sure, but yet, the valve sends water to both zones or only 1 repeatedly.

I would like to consider replacing this valve with an electrically-controlled solution. That would probably require the replacement of my current timer and the valve, with an electronic panel and the 2 valves, right?

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,240

Location: Metro NYC

5

Monday, April 4th 2016, 4:30pm

You have the wrong indexing valve for your application. The Hydrotek 6000 series is designed for a flow of 15 gpm, and a zone of one rotor and two sprays is almost certainly not going to provide the specified minimum.

You should look at a K-Rain 4000 series with a special-order internal part ( 7005509 ) that allows a flow as small as 6 gpm.

Or you can look for a Fimco 1000 series indexing valve from your local Home Depot, which also can be fitted with a low-flow internal part. Fimco has a deal where you can mail the original standard internal part to the factory and get back the low-flow part by return mail.

NABRIL

Active Member

6

Tuesday, April 5th 2016, 3:26pm

thanks wet boots
I dont get an email notification when a reply is posted.

I want to change this, but what is frustrating is that it did work fine for a year or so after its installation. Since then, I've removed spray heads here and there, and some other projects have broken and repaired pvc pipes. So, where am I loosing ppm.
I do not just have 1 rotor and 2 sprays. What i said was that I have 2 zones: one containing all rotors, and the other containing all the sprays.

I will check out your suggestions. Why not an electronic optionl, with valves that are controlled by a panel?

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,240

Location: Metro NYC

7

Tuesday, April 5th 2016, 5:49pm

So what is your flow in gpm? Does it meet the 15 gpm minimum? If not, then you know why I emphasized the cleanouts as a way to try to continue running 'out-of-spec' successfully. It does happen that the internal rubber disc and stem is a wear part, and it is subject to replacement. A replacement can be had with a different spring, to help with lower flows.

What you may not be considering is that you run from a pump, and you might be pumping some sand, which can be very hard on conventional electric control valves. It isn't a problem you solve without spending hundreds. If you convert the system to not use an indexing valve, you can be heading into a new set of problems.

Speaking of pumps, what pressure are you seeing as the zones run? If you have any pump problems, they can affect the operation of the valve. Suction line leaks are noted as a particular concern.

NABRIL

Active Member

8

Wednesday, April 20th 2016, 1:24pm

thank you again WetBoots.

1. What are you referring to with "cleanouts"?
2. Are you suggesting, as a start, to replace the rubber disc in my 6000 valve? After inspecting it, it looks fine, with no tears or much wear after 3 years.
3. Is there a known way to measure the flow of my pump?

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,240

Location: Metro NYC

9

Thursday, April 21st 2016, 6:19pm

What is the output pressure of your pump? What is the flow to the zones? You should know these things, to help with the diagnosis. The second number might be derived from the first, as long as you can find the data for all the heads and spray nozzles in the system.

It might make sense to have a tee and a shutoff valve in the outlet plumbing, so you can perform some measurements of flow and pressure (what is commonly known as a "bucket test")

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,240

Location: Metro NYC

10

Thursday, April 28th 2016, 6:04am

"It used to work and now it doesn't" says that something changed. Top candidates are the valve and the water supply. Systems in Florida have been known to develop problems as the water table drops, and well output reduces.

Until it has been discounted with hard numbers of system flow and pump output, the likeliest sight-unseen diagnosis is that a new disc is needed for the valve. That you would consider spending hundreds of dollars converting the system to operate on conventional valves, without first investing twenty-odd dollars on a new valve disc is something of a head-scratcher. If you can't confirm that your zones are each using at least 15 gpm when they are operating, then you should get a low-flow replacement disc.

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