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waterer

New Member

1

Wednesday, October 23rd 2013, 2:41am

stuck with new sprinkler design

Hi. I'm a first-timer that needs help. Thank you in advance. I must have read over 100 threads so far, but I am now stuck. I would appreciate a sanity check and suggestions on component selection.

Here's a summary of the desired end state. I live in zone 7a.
1 drip zone @ about 1-2 GPM (about 5 trees)
1 drip zone @ about 1-2 GPM (20' x 5' flower bed)
1 drip zone @ about 1-2 GPM (16' x 4' raised vegetable bed)
1 sprinkler zone @ about 2.5 GPM, with 6 Hunter MP200090 rotator nozzles (25' x 15' lawn)
single zone valve box at a 12-18" depth
city water supply from 1/2" PEX @ 90psi

I have or planned the following, in the order of water flow. My questions are in parenthesis.
A. 1" PVC ball valve rated at 150psi already burried at 24" depth (should I replace with a brass valve?)
B. a suitable filter (need help choosing)
C. Wilkins 720a PBV 1" (PVC pipe suitable for the 18" riser pipes?)
D. Pressure regulator to drop to 40psi (need help choosing)
E. above three items covered by a fake plastic boulder (perhaps with a heater to extend months of operation)
F. "Premium" manifold kit (not sure about this anymore)
G. 4 Rain Bird 100-DVF valves
H. 3/4" poly lateral lines to spray heads and drip lines
I. Rain Bird ARValveKit to prevent backflow from the raised-bed drip zone that is higher than the PBV (sufficient to prevent backflow? I may bury drip lines.)

My main concern is the selection and placement of the filter and the pressure regulator. Because Rain Bird's drip zone valve kits don't really fit inside my 19"x13.5" valve box, I would like to use a master filter and pressure regulator. I have read that I will need pressure ratings >150psi to place them upstream of the valves, but I am having hard time choosing them. Perhaps I should instead install a master valve upstream of the filter and pressure regulator (which can then be plastic/cheaper 150psi components)?

I'd appreciate any input. I just want a system that doesn't require much tweaking with changing supply pressure.


Jim

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,087

Location: Metro NYC

2

Wednesday, October 23rd 2013, 4:57pm

Trade in the PVB for an RPZ - when elevation is against you, it is the only no-doubts-anywhere-anytime choice. Filter the drip separately, as per accepted practice, and you reduce filter maintenance. Buy another valve box. Don't skimp on number or size of boxes, because it hurts you come maintenance time.

waterer

New Member

3

Wednesday, October 23rd 2013, 10:01pm

Ah. Thank you. A good RPZ you can recommend?

I thought installing a large filter above ground will be easier to service than three separate filters 18" below. Three filters will fit inside my box, but pressure regulators will not.

Is there a pressure reducer you can recommend (pressure regulator is even better) that is suitable for installation upstream of my valves? If not, is the flow control mechanism of my 100-DVF valves sufficient to reliable control drip zone pressure?

Thanks again.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "waterer" (Oct 24th 2013, 1:57am)


Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,087

Location: Metro NYC

4

Thursday, October 24th 2013, 9:50am

You might look at the Rainbird PRF-075-RBY, which combines both functions in a single unit, and will work at the flow rate you specified.

An RPZ that do-it-yourself folks might favor is the Wilkins 375, which is designed with all the works in a removable plastic assembly, so you can take it indoors for winter storage.

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