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gr0d

New Member

1

Wednesday, September 4th 2013, 7:29pm

New System Head Decision

Hello All,



Pretty much brand new to irrigation although I
have been trying to read as much as I can lately.



I am going to install a new sprinkler system this
fall before winter to be ready for spring and I am having a hard time trying to
figure out what rotors I should go with. Listed below is a little background of
what I am working with.



I took the bass ackwards approach and ran a
mainline out to the area where the valves would go. My service line is
3/4" as well as the meter. I tee'ed into the 3/4" line after the
meter and rain a 1" pvc line to the valve location. Doing a pressure test
and GPM test at the valve location, I have 80 PSI at 15GPM. My area to water is
very simple. It is basically a 90'X90' square.



I was "planning" to do 4 zones with 16
heads total at 30' a distance. The Zones would look like below.



1. 90, 180, 180,90

2. 180,360,360,180

3. 180,360,360,180

4. 90,180,180,90



I "planned" to use the Hunter i20 rotors
with a 4GPM nozzle. Using the 4GPM nozzle, seems like I would only be able to
get .25" an hour down per zone. I've already purchase hunter jartop
1" valves. Does this seem right? Would you change anything? Do anything
different?

hi.todd

Supreme Member

Posts: 417

Location: Houston, Texas

2

Wednesday, September 4th 2013, 10:22pm

I would use the Rainbird 5000 series heads.
There are several models of the head, and I would go with the plain jane.

Hunter Valves nice choice.

Jar top or not

:thumbsup:
:thumbup: :thumbsup:

gr0d

New Member

3

Thursday, September 5th 2013, 9:29am

""I would use the Rainbird 5000 series heads.""

I was looking at the 5004 with Pressure control. Do you think the pressure control is a good feature and worth while considering my pressure is 80PSI right off the bat?

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,049

Location: Metro NYC

4

Thursday, September 5th 2013, 9:57am

80 psi pressure at the supply is no big deal, and no special heads are needed with that supply pressure.

gr0d

New Member

5

Tuesday, September 24th 2013, 11:16am

So I went ahead and mocked up one zone with 1" pipe and 4 Orbit Heads that I bought from lowes just to make sure that my design looked good. I used pvc and connected the 3/4" female inlet head to a female 1"x1"x3/4" femail tee via a male 3/4" adapter. I got decent coverage but not as much as I expected using the 4gpm nozzle. I was only getting around 27 feet. I was wondering If I need to step down the inlet pipe to the head to get better pressure? Am I way off in my thinking?

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,049

Location: Metro NYC

6

Tuesday, September 24th 2013, 1:23pm

Yes, you are way off in your thinking.

It is now safe to assume you have overdrawn your account, so far as pertains to system flow. Remove all the nozzles and try a size smaller. That would be two 3 gpm nozzles for the middle heads on a zone, and two 1.5 gpm nozzles for the end heads. (since we are assuming you now are using 4 gpm and 2 gpm nozzles)

Before doing anything, take more pressure measurements. Again, with the system off, and then, with the zone turned on.

gr0d

New Member

7

Tuesday, September 24th 2013, 1:40pm

Yes, you are way off in your thinking.

It is now safe to assume you have overdrawn your account, so far as pertains to system flow. Remove all the nozzles and try a size smaller. That would be two 3 gpm nozzles for the middle heads on a zone, and two 1.5 gpm nozzles for the end heads. (since we are assuming you now are using 4 gpm and 2 gpm nozzles)

Before doing anything, take more pressure measurements. Again, with the system off, and then, with the zone turned on.
okay, I figured as much. What's the easiest way to accomplish the pressure test withthe zone on? I have a boiler drain after my manifold for draining purposes. Can I check static pressure there with a pressure gauge and test it there as well while the zone is on?

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,049

Location: Metro NYC

8

Tuesday, September 24th 2013, 3:57pm

Use the same point for all your supply pressure readings.

CountBurns

New Member

Posts: 2

Location: Canada

9

Saturday, December 28th 2013, 3:08am

New System Head Decision

sprinkler is one of the most useful lawn sprinkler systems, which offers
a number of benefits. All living landscapes need sufficient water to
flourish and survive properly, and relying on rainfall completely is not
quite feasible as that is not guaranteed.

Cda irrtech

Unregistered

10

Wednesday, January 1st 2014, 1:18am

So I went ahead and mocked up one zone with 1" pipe and 4 Orbit Heads that I bought from lowes just to make sure that my design looked good. I used pvc and connected the 3/4" female inlet head to a female 1"x1"x3/4" femail tee via a male 3/4" adapter. I got decent coverage but not as much as I expected using the 4gpm nozzle. I was only getting around 27 feet. I was wondering If I need to step down the inlet pipe to the head to get better pressure? Am I way off in my thinking?


Overthinking can cause lots of problems.

1 - you have 30' spacing. The head of choice would be hunters mp rotator in the 30' class. Look them up. No gears and very little to go wrong.
2 - make sure you use the mp40 sprinkler body with the nozzle. They are regulated at 40psi which is ideal for this nozzle. When you use a regulated sprinkler, you insure that the pressure is even to every head across the entire line.
3 - when you use gear drive rotors, it's nearly impossible to get matched precipitation between full and part circles resulting in uneven precip rate. And nozzling down will affect your radius on the corner heads resulting in uneven coverage. Issues that can be avoided using mp rotators.

Do your homework and check these heads out. Your situation is ideal for these heads. Also, a high precip rate is rarely a good thing so don't look for a head that can really sling the water out.

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