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Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,030

Location: Metro NYC

1

Thursday, May 24th 2012, 7:00am

List price on an RPZ is well above $300, and don't expect a pro to charge you less. If an RPZ freezes, the brass castings can crack or warp, and there is no fixing that. Simply put, forgetting to winterize an RPZ can cost you about $500 all told, to get it back the way it was.

Hipeye01

New Member

2

Thursday, May 24th 2012, 7:13am

List price on an RPZ is well above $300, and don't expect a pro to charge you less. If an RPZ freezes, the brass castings can crack or warp, and there is no fixing that. Simply put, forgetting to winterize an RPZ can cost you about $500 all told, to get it back the way it was.


Thanks for your response. In your opinion is it safe to assume that warping or cracking has occurred if there is a leak, or is it reasonable to expect a service professional to inspect the parts that are replaceable?

Hipeye01

New Member

3

Thursday, May 24th 2012, 7:42am

For reference the product I have installed currently is the Wilkins 1" 975xl UPC 612052040257 , I do see that the product also somes in larger sizes priced substantially higher
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This post has been edited 2 times, last edit by "Hipeye01" (May 24th 2012, 1:34pm)


Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,030

Location: Metro NYC

4

Thursday, May 24th 2012, 7:55am

If water freezes in an RPZ, it is safe to assume it is ruined. Should you care to not go with that truism, it becomes your burden to tinker around with the thing, because a pro isn't going to be thrilled with the idea of wasting his and your time in an attempted repair.

5

Thursday, May 24th 2012, 8:14am

My general rule is that if any part of a backflow is damaged by freezing I replace the whole thing. There could be hidden damage that will show up later. Then the customer is upset with my work and expect me to warrant the parts I didn't replace because I said they were good.

It would cost you more to have a professional diagnose each part than to do a simple replacement.

You didn't include pictures. In many cases the homeowner can do their own replacement. It's not that hard.
Then have it tested.

6

Monday, June 25th 2012, 10:34am

NEED HELP ON THIS ISSUE

Hi guys, just joined. My 975xl froze winter before last and I replaced the first check valve section. Had a few discharges last summer but my sprinkler guy reworked the 975 and everthing was good. This spring the relief valve discharges came back. I just installed a repair kit and two new check valve seats (one had a 1" chip off the rim). Still have the same discharge when sprinklers not on (nothing when they are). Discharge is pulsing at first then gotes to steady. What else could I do besides buying new unit? Thanks for any suggestions.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,030

Location: Metro NYC

7

Monday, June 25th 2012, 11:58am

Make sure all the air is out of the device. A last-ditch attempt to stop a pulsating discharge is a check valve added upstream of the RPZ

8

Monday, June 25th 2012, 1:02pm

Thanks WB. Is there a link on this forum for flushing air out of system? So I would have two check valves upstream before 975? Is there a sequence to open/shut the valves to avoid discharge. I really appreciate your help. thanks

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,030

Location: Metro NYC

9

Monday, June 25th 2012, 1:16pm

I had a few RPZs prone to pulsing, on high-pressure supplies, and it was essential to crack open the top-mounted testcocks to bleed the air out (these were all Febco 825Y) - it's still okay for an RPZ to spit some water when a zone shuts off hard.

10

Monday, June 25th 2012, 1:39pm

Thanks. I will probably get the relief valve seat replacement today and install it since it's the only new part not installed. I also didn't lubricate the o-rings with the supplied gel (intructions don't mention it) and I'll do that.



I replaced the check seat valve orings with round o-rings from Home Depot. Do I need to get different o-rings from my supplier? Thanks again.



Burning up in Arkansas.

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