You are not logged in.

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

brisk

Senior Member

1

Monday, June 27th 2011, 10:32pm

Help with my design... is it ok?

Hi, I am so happy to find out this great site! Lots of information for me to learn!

I am in the process of design my sprinkler system. I am in Toronto. My land size is 60x120, with a 3000 sq house in the middle.

I checked the static water pressure is 65 PSI, the pipe size is all the way 3/4" (from water meter to sprinkler system). So I figured the water flow should be at least 10 GPM.

I divided my land to 5 zones, 2 large areas use Rainbird 5004-PC-SAM rotors, 3 small areas uses Rainbird 1804 headers with strip nozzle.

I will tap in the water from garage (marked 'water' in the picture below). I plan to install an inline double check valve for back flow preventer. The valve box (one valve box for 5 zones) will be installed just outside of the garage.

FB stands flower bed in the picture below. I do not plan to have separate zones for the 2 flower beds, as I am hoping the rotors can cover both.

Now my questions, for the main water pipe (tap to the valve box), do I need to use 1" PVC or 3/4" PVC?
for the lateral (from valve box to heads), should I use 1/2" or 3/4" PEX pipe? Do I have to use funny pipe?

Can anyone please give me some feedback on my initial design?


Thanks!!!

grey

Advanced Member

Posts: 90

Location: Eastern WA

2

Tuesday, June 28th 2011, 12:49am

I believe mainline should be 1". 1/2" is way too small for laterals as well as 3/4" PEX. I think you should use poly pipe for laterals given you are in freezing climate.As far as size goes there's calculations at irrigationtutorials.com but I will be using 1" poly. I have essentially similar static pressure, GPM and supply pipe size.
Does flower beds require the same amount of water as grass?

brisk

Senior Member

3

Tuesday, June 28th 2011, 5:37am

Thanks.
Yes, flower beds can have same amount of water as grass.

Any feedback on the zone, head placement?
I believe mainline should be 1". 1/2" is way too small for laterals as well as 3/4" PEX. I think you should use poly pipe for laterals given you are in freezing climate.As far as size goes there's calculations at irrigationtutorials.com but I will be using 1" poly. I have essentially similar static pressure, GPM and supply pipe size.
Does flower beds require the same amount of water as grass?

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,055

Location: Metro NYC

4

Tuesday, June 28th 2011, 8:20am

Inline dual check valves are not for sprinkler system backflow protection. Once you input your location, specific advice can be given.

wsommariva

Supreme Member

Posts: 332

Location: Northern New Jersey

5

Tuesday, June 28th 2011, 9:27am

Don't have to use funny pipe but it makes an easier install. Toro also says that it cushions the heads in high use areas.

As far as the flower beds, if they are mulched any extra water won't cause erosion.

PVB is a good backflow preventer, double check valves aren't. IMHO. If you can install a PVB use unions so you can take it in in the winter.

brisk

Senior Member

6

Tuesday, June 28th 2011, 9:48am

Inline dual check valves are not for sprinkler system backflow protection. Once you input your location, specific advice can be given.
I am in Toronto.

thanks

brisk

Senior Member

7

Tuesday, June 28th 2011, 9:51am

Don't have to use funny pipe but it makes an easier install. Toro also says that it cushions the heads in high use areas.

As far as the flower beds, if they are mulched any extra water won't cause erosion.

PVB is a good backflow preventer, double check valves aren't. IMHO. If you can install a PVB use unions so you can take it in in the winter.
This one?

FEBCO FEU765-100 1 in. PVB Backflow Preventer w/ Union Ball Valve Ends

I am in Toronto, so I'll have to winterize the system every fall.... and I plan to install the backflow preventer in garage, so still good to use w/ Union ball valve ends or the regular one?

Any feedback/comments on the head placement or selections?

thanks

wsommariva

Supreme Member

Posts: 332

Location: Northern New Jersey

8

Tuesday, June 28th 2011, 12:38pm

Let Wetboots answer the backflow preventer question. He's the expert. Also local code should be checked. In my case I bought a Febco PVB and added my own pvc unions. And it had to be at least 12 inches higher that the highest head. But the one in the link does the same thing. Also if you put it in the garage be aware that it may "spit" occasionally.

wsommariva

Supreme Member

Posts: 332

Location: Northern New Jersey

9

Tuesday, June 28th 2011, 12:43pm

PVBs are expensive and I would not leave it in the garage unless it never freezes in there.

As far as head placement my design on paper didn't relate well to reality. And once I finally settled on a plan, I needed to make a couple adjustments once all my heads were in. But now it's great.

brisk

Senior Member

10

Tuesday, June 28th 2011, 12:55pm

PVBs are expensive and I would not leave it in the garage unless it never freezes in there.

As far as head placement my design on paper didn't relate well to reality. And once I finally settled on a plan, I needed to make a couple adjustments once all my heads were in. But now it's great.
Thanks, I don't have other place to put the PVB, garage is the best place for me. Will it be ok I blow out the water from PVB every fall? Still no good?

Also, my head placement looks good (at least on paper?)

thanks

Similar threads

Rate this thread