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2Quik

Senior Member

1

Monday, May 23rd 2011, 6:12pm

Sprinkler blowout valve

I am working on installing a sprinkler system and i am a little confused on where to add the sprinkler blowout valve, i am not sure if this is the right term for it or not. Basically you connect to it to blow out your sprinklers after summer. What is it's name and what does it look like and where to you add this?

Thanks.

Mitchgo

Supreme Member

Posts: 502

Location: Seattle

2

Monday, May 23rd 2011, 10:26pm

There called a Quick Coupler along with a Quick Coupler Key

Install right after your back flow assembly / irrigation shut off

2Quik

Senior Member

3

Tuesday, May 24th 2011, 10:27am

Don't some people use the backflow to blowout there sprinklers? Is there different ways out blowing out your sprinkler system other then through a quick coupler?

Thanks.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,021

Location: Metro NYC

4

Tuesday, May 24th 2011, 12:39pm

Too vague a question - if the system needs blown out, the location of the blowout valve depends on how the supply plumbing is laid out.

Mitchgo

Supreme Member

Posts: 502

Location: Seattle

5

Tuesday, May 24th 2011, 10:01pm

Well.. Yes people do blow from the back flow asseembly.. but it can damage them so it's not recommended..

2Quik

Senior Member

6

Wednesday, May 25th 2011, 10:15am

So the best and safest way is to install a Quick Coupling Valve and right after my main shut off and filter? Does it need to be burred blow ground level or does it sit above ground level? I am using 1"poly all through out my sprinkler system so how would or what fittings would i use to connect the quick coupling valve to my poly? I am using 1" poly through out i would need a 1" quick coupling vale right? or could i go with the 3/4" one?

Thanks!

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "2Quik" (May 25th 2011, 10:27am)


HooKooDooKu

Supreme Member

7

Wednesday, May 25th 2011, 10:41am

So the best and safest way is to install a Quick Coupling Valve and right after my main shut off and filter?...


Building codes require the connection point to be AFTER a backflow preventer. That's one of the purposes of a backflow preventer. Among other things, the backflow preventer ensures that pressurized air (along with oils and any other "stuff" found in an air compressor) don't get pushed back into the potable water supply when someone forgets to close the shutoff valve between the backflow preventer and the connection point.

So what you need (in this order) is:
1. Main shutoff valve - to totally isolate the entire irrigation system from the rest of the water supply.
2. Filter - so that the water is filtered before it gets to the backflow preventer.
3. Backflow preventer - to protect any potable water linked to the irrigation system.
4. Another shutoff valve - needed to isolate the backflow preventer for blowouts for winterization.
5. Connection point for blowouts - doesn't have to be a quick-connect, but need some means of connection for blowout.
6. Irrigation valves.

Now you might not need a seperate shutoff between the backflow and blowout, if the backflow preventer already has shutoff valves at each end of it. Then there's the issue of how to winterize the backflow preventer itself. What would seem easiest would be to attach the backflow preventer with a pair of unions so that it can be simply removed from the system. If you go this route, I would suggest you buy an additional union and attach dead-end (i.e. capped off) pieces of pipe to the two union halfs. The idea is that when you remove the backflow preventer for the winter, you can protect the pipes from creapy crawlers by attatching the capped off pieces of pipe to the two union halves from where the backflow preventer was removed.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,021

Location: Metro NYC

8

Wednesday, May 25th 2011, 12:17pm

All this is speculation - to be more exact, the install location is required, along with the location of the system connection and what type of backflow prevention is being used.

2Quik

Senior Member

9

Wednesday, May 25th 2011, 10:23pm

Sprinkler.com states that you use either a hose bib valve or a quick coupler valve should be added to allow for added water availability and for easy system blow-out in the fall. Could you use a hose bib valve too?

Thanks.

Mitchgo

Supreme Member

Posts: 502

Location: Seattle

10

Wednesday, May 25th 2011, 10:39pm

Yeah that works too, just install a shut off prior to the adapaters

When I winterize .. Lots of system don't have quick couplers.

I do a quick 1 second burst of air through the assembly with all test cocks open, then blow through the last tc because this is past the check

Filter on a city supplied water irrigation system? A little over kill and its not really needed. go for it if you want though.

As boots vaquely said. You need to check with your local city codes on proper installment and the proper back flow assembly to be installed.

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