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wherediputit

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1

Sunday, March 27th 2011, 11:29pm

Questions Regarding Toro 53381 Leak

Hi Everybody,

I had a few questions pertaining to one of my sprinkler valves, all of which are Toro 53381. We have had our sprinkler system for about 22 years and just recently replaced the Toro PVB with a Febco, which is working great. After I installed that, I replaced the diaphragm and solenoid in one of the valves (the others had been replaced recently already) well upon testing everything worked fine, and then shortly after that, that station wouldn't come on unless I opened the bleeder and wouldn't turn off. So today I took it apart again and couldn't find any cracks or debris, put it back together and it worked but now water is coming out of where the solenoid mounts to the valve (on these valves there are two screws that hold the solenoid to the valve top). We have turned off the water to the valves and are now at a loss as to what route we should take to fix it. Should we buy a new 53381 (only one place near us sells them) or should we start replacing each valve with Irritrol 2400 or 2500s?

Any other ideas are much appreciated, and I thank you in advance for your assistance.

mrfixit

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2

Monday, March 28th 2011, 2:09am

Is the O-ring missing?

min

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3

Friday, July 31st 2015, 12:58pm

53381

Where can I buy toro valve 53381?

I installed in1998. Now I can not find them. Some of them did :( not waork.

mrfixit

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Posts: 1,552

Location: USA

4

Friday, July 31st 2015, 3:13pm

Toro 53381

Is this what you're looking for?

It's a different model number but it looks the same to me. Toro Replacement Valve

Parts from this valve Toro 250-06-04 should work to repair your valves as long as the valve body isn't cracked. You could also just use this valve as a replacement.

I have one customer with the Toro inlines and I've replaces at least 7 of them due to cracking. It took 15-20 years for them to crack.

Speaking of cracking. If you go with the Toro inline. Buy the tri-port. The 250-06-04 dual ports will crack on the bottom eventually.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "mrfixit" (Jul 31st 2015, 3:22pm)


Wet_Boots

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Posts: 4,360

Location: Metro NYC

5

Friday, July 31st 2015, 4:36pm

RE: 53381

Where can I buy toro valve 53381?

I installed in1998. Now I can not find them. Some of them did :( not waork.
Look to buy the Toro 254-06-04 as an exact replacement for the 53381 valve with the flow control (another number applies to the valve without the flow control)

Because this male-threads valve body uses glass-filled nylon construction, it does not have the same issues with cracking that the conventional female-threaded models can have.

mrfixit

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Posts: 1,552

Location: USA

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Friday, July 31st 2015, 10:01pm

Yes the nylon filled Toro valves crack.

I find that the nylon filled valves tend to crack more often than the regular plastic valves.

The seat on Rainbird's nylon valves crack a lot.

Wet_Boots

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Location: Metro NYC

7

Saturday, August 1st 2015, 5:54am

Valve bodies cracking seems to be a regional issue, since Toro valve body cracking problems are not on the charts in my area. For folks in the southern regions, they will do best to adhere to a practice of always using full-depth valve boxes. The deeper the valve pit, the cooler they will be in the summer (for us, the benefit is more warmth in the winter)

mrfixit

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Posts: 1,552

Location: USA

8

Saturday, August 1st 2015, 3:01pm

Valve bodies cracking seems to be a regional issue, since Toro valve body cracking problems are not on the charts in my area. For folks in the southern regions, they will do best to adhere to a practice of always using full-depth valve boxes. The deeper the valve pit, the cooler they will be in the summer (for us, the benefit is more warmth in the winter)


I don't think valve depth is a correct diagnosis for the valve cracking I've seen in my area. But then again you're the expert.

Wet_Boots

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Posts: 4,360

Location: Metro NYC

9

Yesterday, 8:14am

Valve bodies cracking seems to be a regional issue, since Toro valve body cracking problems are not on the charts in my area. For folks in the southern regions, they will do best to adhere to a practice of always using full-depth valve boxes. The deeper the valve pit, the cooler they will be in the summer (for us, the benefit is more warmth in the winter)


I don't think valve depth is a correct diagnosis for the valve cracking I've seen in my area. But then again you're the expert.
Thank you for the heartfelt praise. but all snarkiness aside, there seems to be a distinct regional factor to valve bodies cracking, with mentions of cracked valves coming from our southern states, and not from up north. You get more heat in the south, so maybe there are some expansion/contraction issues, which connects to the other distinct difference, that of PVC pipe used throughout the system. It may be that the poly pipe used up north doesn't apply force to the valves when it expands and contracts, being that it is a flexible material.

mrfixit

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Posts: 1,552

Location: USA

10

Yesterday, 4:41pm

Why did you even bother answering this question in the first place? Nothing you said added anything to what I'd already stated.
All you did was give the wrong "exact" replacement information.
I'd already given him the "exact" replacement link.

You have a habit of repeating things already said.

I never once said I was talking about the threads cracking on nylon filled valves. Almost every cracked seat I've ever seen is a nylon filled valve. That has nothing to do with expanding pvc.

The other cracking involves cracks inside the valve and the outside of the valve body. Sometimes the bonnet. No I'm not saying the threads never crack. I attribute that to over tightening of a flared male adapter.

Once again you've turned a topic into your own agenda.

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