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11

Monday, January 24th 2011, 3:43pm

Will have to work on replacing the valves when time permits...probably later this week. Generally, when something like this happens, is it because a valve just literally breaks under (water) pressure over time? Up until now, the system was working just fine...and the valves are only about a year old.
____

Just a follow up. Ran a complete cycle earlier tonight, since we have had some warm weather recently. Ran fine...no triggering. I don't get that at all! Doesn't seem like this could be a self-correcting issue. Have you ever seen issues like this come and go? Will run the cycle again in a couple of days and post results.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "dwkendgardner" (Jan 25th 2011, 1:05am)


hi.todd

Supreme Member

Posts: 417

Location: Houston, Texas

12

Tuesday, January 25th 2011, 7:11pm

If your community was experiencing low water pressure and you ran the system it could be what is causing the problem.



So once the water pressure is restored it would not be an issue any more. Just an idea.



:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
:thumbup: :thumbsup:

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 1,464

Location: USA

13

Wednesday, January 26th 2011, 2:42am

If you figure it is a valve problem I'd just change valve 6 and see what happens.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,087

Location: Metro NYC

14

Wednesday, January 26th 2011, 12:34pm

Why would two zones have been combined in the first place? Maybe that was an error that needs to be undone.

15

Wednesday, January 26th 2011, 6:29pm

Two zones aren't combined, I have two valves wired to the same zone on the controller. I believe that is a fairly common practice, or at least I've heard it being done by others.

If that is what you are questioning, I guess the answer is that the zone was split to be handled by two valves to handle the number of sprinklers. It is for two separate lawn areas on either end of the back yard.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "dwkendgardner" (Jan 26th 2011, 6:37pm)


hi.todd

Supreme Member

Posts: 417

Location: Houston, Texas

16

Wednesday, January 26th 2011, 7:21pm

I read from your first post. You said you had an 8 zone system. Does that mean your timer can handle 8 zones, but 1 of the posts at the timer has 2 wires on it? This would really mean you had a 9 Zone system with an 8 zone timer. This is a practiced used by people taking the short cut. The 8 zone timer is usually 30 to 40 dollars cheaper than the 9 zone clock.

Just a shot in the wind after reading the later posts. If this is the case, like the earlier posts said "time to correct the problem". New timer 9 Zone out door or indoor.
Good luck :thumbup:
:thumbup: :thumbsup:

17

Wednesday, January 26th 2011, 9:00pm

No...each post at the timer still has only one wire. The controller can actually handle up to 9 zones...we are using 8 of them.
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Just ran the complete program again, and it reverted to triggering again at the conclusion of Zone 6's cycle. I went over to where the valves are while Zone 7 ran, and I could see the valve that was trying to trigger. I manually rotated the Solenoid to and fro once, and the triggering stopped. Just a bad valve?

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "dwkendgardner" (Jan 26th 2011, 9:46pm)


Central Irrigation

Supreme Member

Posts: 364

Location: Central Minnesota

18

Thursday, January 27th 2011, 4:47pm

I think what these guys are getting at, is that there are too many heads on your zone 6. Too many heads...too much water...causes water hammer. Water hammer can cause problems to irrigation parts (valves especially). How many heads are on zone 6? How many heads are on the other zones? Try splitting zone 6 back into seperate zones and see if that helps.

19

Thursday, January 27th 2011, 5:30pm

I'm going to estimate that Zone 6 controls about 16 heads...one valve leading to about 6 and the other to about 10. I have other zones that have more heads than that. Unfortunately, I can't split that zone without adding one of these valves to another zone that is already occupied by other valves. (I have no free zones on the controller)

If the bottom line is that there too many heads in the entire area (in this and other zones), then short of adding a whole new controller and cutting and running new lines, it sounds like I could have ongoing problems. The last thing I want to do is to start unearthing lawn and plants to run new lines, but if that is the only solution...

Central Irrigation

Supreme Member

Posts: 364

Location: Central Minnesota

20

Friday, January 28th 2011, 11:29am

You shouldn't need to do any digging out in the lawn. You've stated that zone 6 is comprised of two valves that are wired seperately in the field, but wired together at the controller. If this is correct, there is no need to do any digging. Disconnect one of zone 6's wire (the wire that controls the 6 heads). You will still have the 10 operational heads. Run the system a few times to see if the split zone 6 still tries to "activate" the other zones. Report back with your findings.

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