You are not logged in.

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

steve1111

Unregistered

1

Tuesday, August 31st 2010, 12:48pm

valve leakage

I was having a problem with leakage past my control valves. The system was 10years old and the valves were all the rainbird APAS 1' type which someone had told me were not that good and suffered constant leak pass problems.

I replaced all the valves (all 8) with rainbird 100-DV_A 1" series. Water leaking past the valves now seems worse than ever. I have wet spots in several places on different zones.

I do not have a "backflow device or breaker valve" installed before my valves, its not needed per code, as I have city water in the home and use a well,pressure tank and well pump for irrigation, the two systems being completely separate.

My question is how do I prevent this water leaking past the valves, the pressure is a constant 45-60psi, and the leakage is small, but significant over time between watering cycles.

I will install another valve if needed but all my zones are currently used up by the 8 zone programmer.



Please help.







hi.todd

Supreme Member

Posts: 417

Location: Houston, Texas

2

Tuesday, August 31st 2010, 4:29pm

try hand tightenning the solenoids and bleed screws.



Easy fix most of the time. Try not to overtighten, you sort of get the feel of it.



Good luck. :thumbsup:
:thumbup: :thumbsup:

Fireguy97

Advanced Member

Posts: 77

Location: Kamloops, In Beautiful British Columbia

3

Tuesday, August 31st 2010, 5:00pm

You also might want to open up the bleed screw for a minute. Sometimes with newly installed valves you have to bleed out any air that is still trapped.

Mick
Irrigation Contractor

Certified Backflow Assembly Tester

steve1111

Unregistered

4

Wednesday, September 1st 2010, 7:28am

Thanks for the response guys,

I have tried bleeding the valves and hand tightening the solenoids (nothing to agressive), they have been turned on and off several times manually. I do not believe solenoid tightness is the problem or bleeding of the valves is required.

My workaround right now is to go into the basement and turn the well pump on/off between watering cycles this prevents the water tank from filling/recharging, but this a pain and defeats the purpose of an automated sprinkler system!

Would a PVB valve before the zone valves help with this issue ?

Steve

Fireguy97

Advanced Member

Posts: 77

Location: Kamloops, In Beautiful British Columbia

5

Wednesday, September 1st 2010, 10:10am

Steve, have you tried to pull the new valves apart and look inside? There might be sand or some other debris inside causing the diaphragm not to seal properly. You might just need a filter.

A proper backflow prevention assembly is always recommended, but it won't do anything for a leakage problem.

Mick
Irrigation Contractor

Certified Backflow Assembly Tester

steve1111

Unregistered

6

Wednesday, September 1st 2010, 11:23am

Next step:

I will take all the tops off clean out any debris, reassemble and bleed all the valve (at the same time).Maybe this will cure the problem. I will post again when I have done this and let you know result.

So a PVB valve is not needed. Good this saves $60 and additional work. Changing all 8 valves wasn't cheap.

Thanks for the help.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,071

Location: Metro NYC

7

Thursday, September 2nd 2010, 4:23pm

If the water has sand in it, you will have to take steps to deal with that. Sprinkler equipment "expects" to see clean city water, for the most part, especially the zone valves.

steve1111

Unregistered

8

Friday, September 3rd 2010, 7:02am

Update:

Took off each valve top - no debris or sand. Flushed the piework to the valves. Valve diaphrams showed "rust" film on top so I cleaned it off and rinsed in water. Reassembled. checked tightness of solenoids, I got an extra 1/8turn on 3 of them without overtigtening. Pressured up the system. Bled the valves, all together, then one by one. Checked tanked pressure. 55psi almost full pressure. Left it overnight.

Some of the valves were definately holding pressure, there was a different "feeling/sucking/pressure release" when I opened them.

Checked this morning tank pressure zero. = leak past valve (s).

If I leave pressure in tank and turn off supply before the valves, then the tank holds pressure forever. So its not the supply line to the valves, its not backflow to the pump from the tank.



Maybe the water is not clean enough ???? its frustrating to renew all the valves then have the same problem all over again. BUT thanks anyhow for the help and the replys.



Steve

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,071

Location: Metro NYC

9

Friday, September 3rd 2010, 11:28am

Does the system have a master valve?

steve1111

Unregistered

10

Tuesday, September 7th 2010, 1:24pm

No it does not have a master valve or a PVB valve before the 8 zone valves.
I have a shutoff valve (manual ball type) before the zone valves.
I have an 8 zone timer and all zones are used.

best regards
Steve

Rate this thread