You are not logged in.

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

so_confused

Unregistered

1

Wednesday, July 7th 2010, 9:35am

Pump start relay problem

After 4 years of faithful service, my pump start relay switch stopped working last week. I have tried replacing the relay switch as well as the timer...but the same thing happens, the switch will not click to complete the 220 circuit for the pump to start. I hooked the switch up directly to the timer and the switch worked like a charm...so I know that the switch and the timer are good. I checked the voltage at the switch and it read 24 volts...so what in the world could cause the switch to not work when it is getting enough voltage? Could a bad solenoid along the line cause this? All of my zones still work, allbeit without the pump engaging. I am at a loss...if I am getting the voltage I need...and all of my zones work...and the switch, timer, and pump are all working....what do I do? Talk about frustrating!

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,020

Location: Metro NYC

2

Wednesday, July 7th 2010, 9:54am

There is no guarantee that a modern solid-state controller can supply enough power to operate a pump relay. You can try to find a low-power pump relay.

so_confused

Unregistered

3

Wednesday, July 7th 2010, 10:10am

There is no guarantee that a modern solid-state controller can supply enough power to operate a pump relay. You can try to find a low-power pump relay.


But the relay has worked for years with this controller...why all of the sudden would it stop? Plus, using 20 feet of wire that I had laying around, I moved the switch to the controller and hooked up the common and the MV/P to the wire and it worked just fine. PLus checking the voltage at the orignal switch location came up at 24 volts, which should be enough to trip the switch. I guess what I should do it measure the voltage at the end of the 20 feet of wire and see what that is...odds are it is still going to be 24 though.

I have the Hunter PSR-22...isn't that already a low-power pump relay?

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,020

Location: Metro NYC

4

Wednesday, July 7th 2010, 1:33pm

I was under the impression this was newly-purchased equipment not working. These components are fairly uncomplicated. If something stops working, you switch it out with a new one.

so_confused

Unregistered

5

Wednesday, July 7th 2010, 2:42pm

I was under the impression this was newly-purchased equipment not working. These components are fairly uncomplicated. If something stops working, you switch it out with a new one.
I know...but I don't think it is the switch that is failing. Could a short in one of the common wires from a solenoid cause all the valves to still function but not allow the switch to completely close the circuit? Even though I am getting 24 Volts at the switch, I don't think it is the right "kind" of power, and me being a totally idiot when it comes to electricity isn't helping matters either. All I know is that I have tested the timer, switch, and the pump and all seem to be working correctly and all of my zones turn on, and have been working correctly for 4 years or so. There have been no changes to my system, and I haven't planted or dug around in the dirt recently. I was poking around in my box last night and noticed that the guy who put in my system just twisted regular wirenuts over the connections...there are no water-tight splices. Could one of them have become corroded? But wouldn't it stop the valve from working properly? This is a nightmare. Thanks for your help.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,020

Location: Metro NYC

6

Thursday, July 8th 2010, 12:57pm

You do know there is a point where you hire a professional - being "an idiot about electricity" and making correct decisions about power circuitry are not exactly compatible.

Central Irrigation

Supreme Member

Posts: 349

Location: Central Minnesota

7

Saturday, July 17th 2010, 10:37pm

Relay Problem

Check your Common wire. More than likely, your problem exists where the common wire "tees" off from the rest of the mainline wire and heads to the relay. You stated that when you ran a new wire the relay worked fine, well, the only thing that changed is the wire, therefore, the wire must be the problem. Check all the common connections between the Controller and the relay. Look for any green, corroded, or broken connections.

Keep in mind, just because your volt meter showed 24 volts, doesn't mean you have the amps to activate the relay. My service techs call me way to often saying they have "juice" from an open wire, but can't figure out why the selenoid, or relay in your case, won't work. Simply put, voltage will pass through some of the worst corrosion you've ever seen, but amperage will not. Make sure all connections are intact at the relay and test it again. Chances are your voltage will drop significantly. Make sure ALL wire connections under-ground are wire nutted and in some sort of grease tube.

What color is your MV/Pump Start wire? Look for that color wire when you hunt down that "TEE". Typically, most installers will only run those two wires down to the relay. Might help narrow search.



Hope it helped

Rate this thread