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secutanudu

Active Member

Posts: 36

Location: Guilderland, NY (Near Albany)

1

Thursday, June 17th 2010, 11:16am

Pressure regulator....good idea?

Sprinkler system is a year old...here's an overview...

Incoming pressure to the system is a whopping 180 PSI in 1" copper pipe. After going through the double-check valve, we converted to PVC and went down into the valve box outside. The first valve in the system is a Hunter ICV with the pressure regulator set to ~70 PSI.

The problem - when the system turns on and off, the entire contents of the box gets jostled pretty hard. So much that by the end of the year the entire manifold (pvc pre-built) has been pushed up against the end of the box. The box contains the ICV master valve (with the AccuSet pressure regulator attached) followed by two PGV zone valves. While the valves and components are rated for the incoming pressure, that still doesn't prevent them from being shaken violently when it is hit with all the pressure, particularly when the system shuts off.

My thoughts to correct this was to install a watts pressure regulator inside, on the 1" copper pipe and reduce the pressure of the water leaving the house to 75 PSI.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,061

Location: Metro NYC

2

Friday, June 18th 2010, 8:29am

Get a Wilkins BR4 pressure reducer and install it upstream of the backflow preventer. The Wilkins can be adjusted to set points above 100 psi. Let it take the brunt of the hammer forces.

secutanudu

Active Member

Posts: 36

Location: Guilderland, NY (Near Albany)

3

Friday, June 18th 2010, 8:38am

Get a Wilkins BR4 pressure reducer and install it upstream of the backflow preventer. The Wilkins can be adjusted to set points above 100 psi. Let it take the brunt of the hammer forces.
Only problem is I am going down to my parents this weekend and may not have time to order the WIlkins. I don't know of any stores that carry them. I know I don't want more than 75 PSI anyway....would a watts one set at 75 PSI cause me any issues?

HooKooDooKu

Supreme Member

4

Friday, June 18th 2010, 8:57am

Many pressure regulators (at least those PVC plastice fixed pressure presure regulators) are not designed for incomming pressures above 150psi and state that you need TWO of them in series when operating pressures are that high.

So if your plan is to ADD the Watts pressure regulator at the copper before the transition to PVC, and leave the irrigation pressure regulator in place as well, then it sounds like a good plan... however, I seem to also recall that pressure regulators need something like a 15psi pressure gradient across them to work properly. So I would further suggest that if the irrigation regulator is adjustable, lower it to 50psi if the watts is set to 75psi. Otherwise, if you want to keep the irrigation regulator at 70 (or if it's a fixed regulator), then the Watt regulator needs to be set to about 90psi.

secutanudu

Active Member

Posts: 36

Location: Guilderland, NY (Near Albany)

5

Friday, June 18th 2010, 9:22am

Hmmm...what about ONLY using the watts brass regulator and removing the plastic one (which, by the way, says it can be used with incoming pressure of like 200+psi).

I'd just leave the watts one at 75 and be done with it...

HooKooDooKu

Supreme Member

6

Friday, June 18th 2010, 1:12pm

Since you're installing the Watts back at the copper, won't it be MORE work to remove the plastic pressure regulator? (Given that you've got PLENTY of pressure to work with).

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,061

Location: Metro NYC

7

Sunday, June 20th 2010, 8:34am

There is additional pressure loss in a PRV beyond what the usual charts will show. There are certainly variations of the Watts PRVs with set points beyond 75 psi, but they are special-order and expensive. The Wilkins BR4 has the high range built in, and with an RPZ downstream, you figure to not see as much as 50 psi by the time the water reaches the heads, when you have a 75 psi regulator upstream of the system. If you don't need 50 psi at the heads, any regulator should do the trick.

secutanudu

Active Member

Posts: 36

Location: Guilderland, NY (Near Albany)

8

Sunday, June 20th 2010, 9:04pm

There is additional pressure loss in a PRV beyond what the usual charts will show. There are certainly variations of the Watts PRVs with set points beyond 75 psi, but they are special-order and expensive. The Wilkins BR4 has the high range built in, and with an RPZ downstream, you figure to not see as much as 50 psi by the time the water reaches the heads, when you have a 75 psi regulator upstream of the system. If you don't need 50 psi at the heads, any regulator should do the trick.

Thanks. I had the watts 25-75 regulator so I installed it. Seems to be working fine...SLIGHTLY smaller range on the sprinkler heads though. I have two zones in the front yard (the house is at the top of a hill). One zone is across the bottom, near the street, one zone is across the top. Each zone is 4 hunter heads.

After installing the watts regulator (and removing the hunter one in the valve box), the top ones almost hit the street. The bottom ones go about 2/3rds the way up the hill. This is ok, right? There is full head-to-head coverage within each zone (side to side).

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,061

Location: Metro NYC

9

Monday, June 21st 2010, 7:13am

The RPZ will likely last much longer if it isn't subjected to hammering, so good for you for adding the PRV!

secutanudu

Active Member

Posts: 36

Location: Guilderland, NY (Near Albany)

10

Monday, June 21st 2010, 7:27am

The RPZ will likely last much longer if it isn't subjected to hammering, so good for you for adding the PRV!
Thanks! Actually - it's a double-check valve assembly (Watts 007) if that matters.

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