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1

Saturday, August 6th 2005, 1:52pm

Zone not comming on

Dont know a lot about sprinkler systems but I have a problem. One zone on my 6 zone system will not come on. So I found the valve that controls that zone. If I turn the pressure releif valve on top of the valve housing, the zone comes on. So I can turn it on and off manually. I assume that the problem is with teh solenoid. I pulled it out and inspected it. Looks OK, but who knows with an electrical part. It has worked for several years before I had this problem.

How do I get a replacement? Safe-T-LAwn Hold current .24 amp In rush current .48 amp

Should I replace the entire valve unit or maybe I need to replace the guts of the valve??

What do I do next?

Thanks


shelstad

Starting Member

2

Sunday, August 7th 2005, 8:33am

Make sure its not an electric problem first (the wires). Have someone turn on the valve from the clock to hear or feel the solenoid turning on. If you hear or feel a click you at least ruled out the wires. If you don't take a working solenoid off of another valve and test it with the bad valve. If it works then it is a solenoid issue. If it doesn't work its a valve issue and you may be better off replacing the whole valve.

3

Sunday, August 7th 2005, 1:33pm

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dalspclw1</i>
<br />Dont know a lot about sprinkler systems but I have a problem. One zone on my 6 zone system will not come on. So I found the valve that controls that zone. If I turn the pressure releif valve on top of the valve housing, the zone comes on. So I can turn it on and off manually. I assume that the problem is with teh solenoid. I pulled it out and inspected it. Looks OK, but who knows with an electrical part. It has worked for several years before I had this problem.

How do I get a replacement? Safe-T-LAwn Hold current .24 amp In rush current .48 amp

Should I replace the entire valve unit or maybe I need to replace the guts of the valve??

What do I do next?

Thanks


<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

4

Sunday, August 7th 2005, 1:34pm

Thank you - I replaced the entire valve with a rainbird valve from lowes. Works ok now.


grph

Active Member

Posts: 8

Location: USA

5

Friday, September 16th 2005, 4:29am

I have the same problelm as dalspclw1.
I just installed 4 zones in my back yard. # 4 zone does not work properly. It will not come on but when I open the bleeder valve it will operate. I know this is not the correct procedure.

I have switched solenoids from the other 3 and #4 will not work. I have switched diaphrams and tops and it won't work.
I have checked the wiring and it checks out OK.
I have checked all openings for clogging and everything is clean.
I have good water flow from the pump (I pump from the lake) using a pump relay that works on all valves.

I have exhausted all my avenues in trying to fix this problem.

I'm thinking: If I had a leak on the downstream side of the #4 valve and the sprinklers, would that cause the valve to act the way it does? Since it is new that could happen.

I would appreciate any help on this matter.

Thank you

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 3,883

Location: Metro NYC

6

Friday, September 16th 2005, 6:31am

Doublecheck that there isn't a clog in the solenoid-water passageway that is built into the valve body (the only thing you haven't switched yet) On some brands, it's easy to close this off if you aren't experienced in working with them.

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