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Sunday, November 5th 2017, 8:11pm

Author: jsbeckton

Flow Control Valve

If I have zones that use spray heads with lower pressure requirements Can I use flow control zone valves to drop pressure or do I need a seperate pressure control valve?

Sunday, November 5th 2017, 4:29pm

Author: jsbeckton

Incorporate Garden Spigot

I would like to add a hose spigot for my garden which is all the way at the back of my ~150’ yard since I am trenching for sprinklers anyways. I was thinking that I would just jump a new “zone” off of my closest valve box but this would have a manual globe valve that I would leave open all summer. So effectively I am extending my mainline 150’. Is there any better way to do this?

Tuesday, October 31st 2017, 7:41pm

Author: jsbeckton

Getting the right pressure

Can you be more specific of where I need to check dynamic pressures? Right now all I have is a a tap into the water main feeding my Mainline through a backflip preventer. Water supply is 5/8” and Mainline is 160psi poly.

Tuesday, October 31st 2017, 5:39am

Author: jsbeckton

Getting the right pressure

My rain bird design came back specifying 45psi on the rotors and 30 psi on the spray heads. My static pressure is about 100 psi, need to check dynamic butI assume that I will need a pressure reg valve to drop the whole system (even though they didn’t show one) but will I really need to drop the pressure a second time for zones with spray heads to get them even lower? Could I just use smaller laterals for those zones instead?

Wednesday, December 2nd 2015, 6:04pm

Author: jsbeckton

Help with Rainbird Design

So would I be ok using the one 40psi PRV that they suggested upstream of all valves? Should I still make sure the valves that I get have flow control?

Wednesday, December 2nd 2015, 2:01pm

Author: jsbeckton

Help with Rainbird Design

Yeah, I have the POC done expanded to 1" copper and run outside to a 1" PVB before going 18" underground to a PVC transition (stopped there). What PRV should I use? They suggested at 40 psi max but that seems so restrictive given they are showing all of my heads running 45psi. Is there any way to control the pressure to each zone with the zone valves or do I need a separate PRV on each zone?

Wednesday, December 2nd 2015, 8:14am

Author: jsbeckton

Help with Rainbird Design

Yes, that is part of the input information that they request on the form. I was expecting to be held to about a 10 GPM max per zone so I was shocked to see nearly double that.

Wednesday, December 2nd 2015, 6:16am

Author: jsbeckton

Help with Rainbird Design

I submitted my property information and just received my design from Rainbird. I have about 23GPM at the mainline at about 100 psi which they are recommending that I add an inline pressure reducing valve right after the POC to drop the pressure down to 40 psi but then they show all of the sprinklers using 45psi, some of them 150ft+ downstream of the POC. Will the far end sprinklers really see the correct pressure? Another thing that troubles me is that it seems like I should have more zones than...

Monday, November 9th 2015, 6:44am

Author: jsbeckton

Drilling through Cinder BLock Wall

Hydraulic cement worked great and was pretty easy to use. I ended up just drilling a few 1/4" holes on a circular pattern with a small hammer drill then punching out the center rather than using something more elaborate (inside and outside of wall). Worked like a charm.

Monday, November 9th 2015, 6:41am

Author: jsbeckton

Contracting Trenching

So you are saying that I really need to go with pipe pulling but also that I likely won't be able to rent a machine or find anyone to do it? Not sure where that leaves me as I would much rather rent a trencher and reseed trenches for a few hundred bucks rather than pay several thousand for someone to do the whole job just to get the plow. I guess the articles that say you can easily contract out the trench work and do the rest yourself are just misinformed.

Tuesday, November 3rd 2015, 6:45am

Author: jsbeckton

Contracting Trenching

Profile updated. I actually contacted them about both (trenching/plow). Two companies said they only do full installs and two never got back to me at all. Anyone know if somebody in the Pittsburgh area that does this?

Friday, October 30th 2015, 4:52pm

Author: jsbeckton

Contracting Trenching

I have seen many articles about installation that say you can hire someone to do the trenching for you. I have contacted about 3-4 installers about just doing the trenching alone and none of them offer anything but full design and installation services. Is this common or will some companies just do the trenching part if I lay it all out?

Monday, October 26th 2015, 6:03pm

Author: jsbeckton

Only 5 GPM?

Did you ever get your design from Rain Bird? I sent my for in about 3 weeks ago and have not heard back yet.

Tuesday, October 20th 2015, 8:29pm

Author: jsbeckton

Drilling through Cinder BLock Wall

Great, hydraulic cement it is. I don't think the water company will be too happy if I tie in outside since the water meter is in my basement!

Tuesday, October 20th 2015, 12:18pm

Author: jsbeckton

Drilling through Cinder BLock Wall

My utility room is a concrete vault basically, even concrete slab ceiling so not able to exit above grade without running line to other rooms first. Also, the house is brick so even if I exit above grade I would need to get through that. Planned on exiting then going above for the PVB then back down and converting to copper underground for the mainline.

Tuesday, October 20th 2015, 6:28am

Author: jsbeckton

Drilling through Cinder BLock Wall

I will need to run my 1" copper mainline through my basement wall (not sure if its filled with concrete or not). What is the best way to do this and then seal it (hole will be underground)? I have read about some people renting a concrete hole saw while others are simply using a hammer to tap out a hole in the hollow block (assuming it is hollow). For what its worth, its going to be hidden in my basement so it doesn't need to be beautiful, just water tight and not weaken the surrounding block is...

Friday, October 16th 2015, 11:23am

Author: jsbeckton

High Pressure but Low Flow

I am in Pittsburgh Pennsylvania. Guess I should go with the PVB even if code allows for the DCV (I had a question about this out to the water department already). That's too bad because I think the DCV is being delivered today.

Thursday, October 15th 2015, 7:02pm

Author: jsbeckton

High Pressure but Low Flow

I have a double check valve so I was thinking it doesn't matter where it goes right?

Thursday, October 15th 2015, 11:27am

Author: jsbeckton

High Pressure but Low Flow

Ok, so you are saying that I would likely be OK without a PRV on the irrigation side? Here is what I was thinking: POC->Master Shutoff (Ball) Valve->Backflow Preventer->Subtract Meter->foundation wall->zone valves I will have the subtract meter so I don't pay sewage on the sprinkler flow. So the zone valves will be OK with the 100psi correct? Thanks

Thursday, October 15th 2015, 7:11am

Author: jsbeckton

High Pressure but Low Flow

I confirmed its 100psi, had a bad gauge the first time. I looked at the Wilkins NR3 specs and it seems to only go to 75psi, at least according to this: https://www.sprinklersupplies4less.com/images/upload/file/Wilkins-NR3specs.pdf I have about 1/2 acre and the longest run would be about maybe 150-175' from the house. The grade drops by about 6' on that far end so it works in my favor the farther out I go. Well actually, that low point at the far end of my yard is probably about level with my mai...