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That's a dang old system. I'm glad I don't have to do it. I'd try the Home Depot for parts.
The valve isn't leaking, it's draining the line after the valve shuts off. Anti-syphon valves shouldn't be below grade. They need to be 12" above the highest sprinkler on that line. You need inline valves and a back flow preventer. Or raise the valves up higher. Your set up now is a hazard to the cities water supply.
Are you sure the transformer's bad? Try plugging something else into the outlet and see if it works.
I'd replace those three valves then turn the water back on. Hook the wires up to the new valves.
You need a pro to look at your system. It's missing parts and wiring. The water is also shut off.
Yep, if the tube is cut the valve will stay on. Maybe look for a wet spot. Do any digging lately?
The valves could literally be anywhere in the yard. I avoid hydraulic systems. I always cut that tube in half. If the valves aren't near by I'd look closer to where the sprinklers are. It might be in an individual box. You might be able to hear it if you're lucky, very lucky.
It looks like you have electric solenoids controlling hydraulic valves. The tubes should lead to the valves. Look at the color of the wire connected to the controller and it's probably the same at the solenoid of the problem zone. I'd say either the plunger inside the solenoid is stuck open or there's a hole in the diaphragm of the valve. Also there could be debris inside the valve keeping it open. Do any work on the main line where it was cut open? Be very careful digging around those tubes. Th...
I'd say one of the hose bibs is on a pressure regulator.
Water can't get to the sprinkler head unless it gets past the valve. The valve has an internal leak so it comes out the lowest point on the line. You capped off the lowest point so now it's coming out of the second lowest point. Figure out which valve it is and replace or repair it.
I'd say between the drop in pressure and the fact the heads aren't working indicates a break somewhere. It's probably between the last head that works properly and that tee.
There might be debris in the line clogging up that tee. Was there a repair done recently upstream?
Ok here's what I think. It finally came to me. I think you've programmed the controller wrong so it's running 24 hours a day. Each time you turn the water back on a different zone is running. How many start times do you have? You only need ONE start time then the valves will run in sequence. If you've programmed a start time for each zone, the program is running over and over and over again.
Make sure all the solenoids are turned clockwise in a snug fashion. Don't over tighten. I don't see flow controls on your valves but it's hard to see. That could be the issue as well. Maybe there's debris in the valves. Let us know what the expert figures out, i need to know. =) I wish it was me looking at it. I don't run across something new very often. If you UNPLUG the controller, not just turn off, and the valve is still on, then it's not a short. These telephone experts really aren't expert...
Does the zone go off when you unplug the controller? I'm saying it stays on. Go out and find the valve that's stuck open and repair it. If it does turn off then there's something fishy with your controller.
I can't view your video. Maybe upload a pic instead.
You aren't going to say April Fools! tomorrow are you?
Do you by chance have an indexing valve? Can you post a pic of the valves? Go to www.tinypic.com upload your pic there. Then cut and paste the forum code to your post.
Since the valve stays on when you unplug the controller, it needs to be serviced.
Zone 1 and zone 3 are probably the same valve. Maybe you switched the wires around without knowing it.
