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Wednesday, August 19th 2015, 3:44pm

Author: njitgrad

re-purposing a pair of spray heads for drip line irrigation

I have a pair of Toro spray heads isolated on Zone 5 (the only two outlets on that zone) that pop up and water the foliage of the shrubs in front of them. Useless, I know. But that's how the previous homeowner had it installed. I went to my local irrigation supply warehouse today and purchased the necessary equipment to re-purpose (and slightly re-locate the two spray heads) with drip line irrigation equipment so that the root systems are watered instead of the foliage. One spray head currently ...

Thursday, January 29th 2015, 9:17am

Author: njitgrad

PVB froze

Agreed. So how can I rule out the ball valve leaking? Assuming it is a ball valve leak....would this have happened if the valves on the PVB were in the closed position or would the pipes leading up to the PVB have burst instead? Should I look into repairing this now or wait until Spring? I could always melt the ice with a hot air gun and siphon out any water (assuming I disassemble the PVB valve). Regarding the PVB itself, is it repairable? - EDIT- I just had a telephone conversation with a (ver...

Wednesday, January 28th 2015, 1:10pm

Author: njitgrad

PVB froze

The shutoff valve inside my house is in the closed position. It's a 1/4 turn ball valve. I closed it before they blew the lines out.

Wednesday, January 28th 2015, 8:39am

Author: njitgrad

PVB froze

In 2013 I had a new Watts 800M4 PVB installed by a local irrigation company and it worked fine for the remainder of 2013 and all of 2014. I have the irrigation system winterized professionally every season. I just noticed yesterday that the winterization was probably not done very well this time because the cap for my PVB valve seemed to be askew. When I removed the cap I can see the spring expanded due to ice. Is this something that can easily be repaired? Shouldn't the irrigation company that ...

Tuesday, July 15th 2014, 10:03am

Author: njitgrad

think of it this way

I think the best way to picture this is to imagine a feature where a rotor would water from 0 degrees to 110 degrees, not water from 110 degrees to 160 degrees, then water again from 160 degrees to 180 degrees. My garden falls in the 110 to 160 degree area of coverage and I don't want my garden watered for a multitude of reasons.

Friday, June 27th 2014, 2:15pm

Author: njitgrad

piggybacking spray heads?

Quoted from "Central Irrigation" Is it possible to just use a full circle nozzle, or an adjustable spray nozzle? I have a vision that you want two heads right next to each other. If that's the case, save the money and use a different nozzle. Unless I'm not understanding you...a full circle nozzle will not only get my garden wet, but I also be watering my neighbor's lawn for free!

Wednesday, June 25th 2014, 12:48pm

Author: njitgrad

piggybacking spray heads?

I have a 5-zone system with 2-5 sprinker heads (of various types) on each zone for a total of 19 heads. I am in the process of replacing each one (as my time permits) with RB5004 heads because they are very simple to adjust. I am about to replace an old Orbit head and was wondering if at the same time I could piggyback a 2nd identical head off of it to spray water in the opposite direction. The reason for wanting to do this is that two years ago I installed a new garden near the back corner of m...

Monday, June 23rd 2014, 2:05pm

Author: njitgrad

seeking advice about Hunter WSS Sensor

Last summer I did a self-install of a Hunter Pro-C controller to which I added a Hunter Roam kit remote. The system works as I expected it to with one exception...the human element. Not being a pro, I really don't know how to go about programming my zones. I've been relying on manual watering with the remote. Depending on how much time I have in the morning before water usage in the house is in high demand, I select Program A, B or C to run. Program A runs each of the 5 zones for 60 min, Program...

Wednesday, July 10th 2013, 10:04am

Author: njitgrad

is my zone working correctly?

I ended up returning the 42SA+ to HD and went to a local irrigation supply to pick up some RB5004 heads instead. Same result. Fast forward 2 and half weeks later. I noticed a huge hole in my mulch bed yesterday and a lake of water after turning the troubled zone on. It turns out I had a leak in my poly hose. After digging it out and cutting the bad section out I determined that it was likely caused by pressure from roots from a shrub that was planted on top of that line. I ripped that shrub out ...

Wednesday, July 10th 2013, 9:55am

Author: njitgrad

air compressor for blowout

So basically what you're saying is that its not practical for a homeowner to purchase a compressor just for doing blowouts because of the storage space it requires and the hefty price tag for such a dedicated unit. My blowout costs $90 every Fall.

Thursday, June 27th 2013, 1:46pm

Author: njitgrad

RE: Air Compressor for blowouts

Quoted from "H2oExpert" Your going to want to find a compressor that has a high CFM (cubic feet minute). Depending how much time you want to spend doing your B/O, for a normal system 135cfm is a good place to start. you can use a compressor like the one you were asking about but it will take quite a while Is it just me or does 135 cfm sound like a tremendous amount. The Rolair JC10 specs indicate 3.8 cfm @ 40psi and 2.35 cfm @ 90 PSI. These numbers are not even in the ballpark. Am I missing som...

Thursday, June 27th 2013, 1:37pm

Author: njitgrad

left stop on RB 5004

Quoted from "Wet_Boots" If you can change the position of the coverage arc by force applied to the top of the turret, then you are using the clutch. The printed instructions became out-of-date the moment the clutch was added to the head. Thanks. Exactly what I have been thinking, just wanted an experienced installer to confirm.

Tuesday, June 25th 2013, 9:12am

Author: njitgrad

left stop on RB 5004

I just called Rainbird and asked them this question. They told me to turn ONLY the turret to adjust the left stop (which is what I have been doing). I told them that the directions for setting the left stop on the 5000 series on their website don't make sense. They say to rotate the entire case which makes it sound like its possible to loosen the connection to the inlet pipe if it's anything more than a 1/4 turn. Am I right?

Monday, June 24th 2013, 1:28pm

Author: njitgrad

left stop on RB 5004

I don't know if my newly purchased 5004 heads have the new slip clutch feature. How can I tell? I bought them at a local irrigation supply company and the guy made it sound like they had them but I don't know for sure. I am able to turn the rotor past the factory set left and right stops with some effort but is this OK? If I don't have the slip clutch, how do you adjust the left stop in that case? All of the manuals and videos I watched make it sound almost like there is a possibility of having ...

Sunday, June 23rd 2013, 9:13am

Author: njitgrad

air compressor for blowout

Looking to buy a compressor this summer to blow out my own lines out at the end of the season. Will a 125 PSI compressor like the one below be sufficient for a residential property with approximately 1/2 acre of property? Do I then just need to add a blowout fitting (also below)? Rolair 2.5 Gal Air Compressor Blowout fitting

Sunday, June 23rd 2013, 8:48am

Author: njitgrad

zone valve location a bit of a mystery

Quoted from "electrifiedmale" My ROAM works great too. I can even sit in my living room and turn on the sprinklers and my receiver port is in the garage also. Awesome, good to know I'm not the only person that did this. Did you mount it right on the controller box? I carefully bored a hole into the side to fit the smart port and used a romex connector nut on the inside to hold it in place. I'll take a pic tonight. I just wish the remote had a feedback mechanism to tell me how much time is left ...

Sunday, June 23rd 2013, 8:20am

Author: njitgrad

is my zone working correctly?

I have a 5 zone system and it appeared yesterday that one of them was not functioning as well as the other four. Upon inspection I realized two heads (a Toro and a Hunter PGP) were leaking majorly. I haven't really used my system much at all this season, only early in the Spring where it was determined that the mechanical timer in my garage needed to be upgraded, a project I finally completed this weekend with a Hunter Pro-C I purchased from Sprinkler Warehouse. So I went ahead and replaced both...

Friday, June 21st 2013, 10:43pm

Author: njitgrad

zone valve location a bit of a mystery

In the process of replacing my Imperial Valet timer with a Hunter Pro-C, I decided to replace ALL existing wiring from the inside of my garage to the outside landscaping (as much as I reasonably could). I have only been living at my new house for two years and the previous (original) owner had no clue about the location of any zone valves so I was left to figure it out myself. As I was trenching today I identified a zone box (I'll call this Box 1) housing my master zone value (right next to wher...

Tuesday, June 18th 2013, 10:27am

Author: njitgrad

advice for getting new PVB installed

So I still do not understand what needs to be done here (other than the fact that I need a real AVB). What I need is a visual. Does an AVB need to be installed indoors? if not, does the "fakery" need to be simply swapped out with an AVB? I am really getting frustrated here because its obvious you know your stuff and you are not painting a clear enough picture for a simpleton like myself, other than referring to my current configuration as a "fakery"...... If I call my local pro I need to tell th...