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Thursday, November 20th 2008, 1:30am

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Welcome to the forum

Good question. I bet you can get several different answers. Seems every installer has a favorite brand and model. In my case, I'm a Weathermatic guy, I use the SL (Smart Line) 1600. When teathered to a moniter (SLW 10 or 20), run times are adjusted according to the programmed evapotrranspiration index and conditions sensed by the moniter. Very cool and efficient. Additionally each zone is adjustible to slope and type of soil, and for type of plants or turf. That said, any controller that is prog...

Wednesday, November 5th 2008, 10:34pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Strip sprayers to the rescue

Hi. Your problem is one we encounter regularly. To give you the best answer, some dimensions would be helpful. That said, check out the various strip sprayer heads. Other options include triagular spacing using low angle 1/2 & 1/4 plastic or brass heads. Best choice depends on your area to be watered. Hope these suggestions point you in the right direction. If you need more help, post the dimensions of the area to be covered, and you will get some other ideas. Jeff

Wednesday, November 5th 2008, 10:27pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

going for it

Quoted from "rettenhu" My only concerns with using this approach are the potential for these fittings/unions leaking and that if I do have to replace a valve that the fittings/unions will be easy to realign and tighten. I guess we'll see... Yeah, the leaking is my major concern. And, I would replace the valves. The newer ones should last at least 10 years, and probably a lot longer. I'm old enough, that those valves may outlive me, or by the time they fail, I'll be living elsewhere, and worried...

Monday, November 3rd 2008, 5:50pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Parts, and an alternative

Hi, Seems well thought out, but I think you need an adapter to attach the mainline to the manifold, and an endcap. Rough calculations put the prices you list in your post at about $36. Adding the additional parts brings it to $44. I build 1 inch PVC manifolds for about $7 in parts. You didn't mention why replacement is necessary, but another solution may work. I rarely replace a valvebody, usually from freeze damage. I have had to replace gaskets, solenoids,and bonnets before. I usually unscrew ...

Saturday, November 1st 2008, 11:00am

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Tap intop the maiinline

Good answers ! Two other thoughts. If you use your water spigot, you may hear the water runing whenever the irrigation system is on. Possibly a problem if you are irrigating in the early A.M., and anyuone wishes to sleep in. Another consideration, is the design of your system. Your present system may work, but if you put all heads on one line,the last will not spray as much do th the pressure lossin the pipe. As an alternative, if you "T" right off the line at the spigot, and run two lines, the ...

Saturday, November 1st 2008, 10:48am

Author: Lowvolumejeff

a suggestion

I agree, but you may want to consider the Rainbird 1800 Retro. It replaces one of your heads, and has a self contained filter and pressure reducer. Theyn just cap off the other heads. Often, on my conversions, I might use two or more on a zone, if I need 1/2 line at other locations. At $14 or less they are relatively inexpensive, neat and easy. Available at this sights sponser, www.sprinklerwarehouse.com , and your local supplier Jeff

Tuesday, October 21st 2008, 10:14am

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Blow out- more info please

Hi, Need to know what type of backflow. Is it a PVB, DCA, or RP? You told us it is a Wilkins, do you know what model number? If in doubt, try posting a picture. Thanks, Jeff

Sunday, October 19th 2008, 11:34am

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Parts for the drip system

Great, but I thought your original post states you have pop - ups on the zone, so now an I correct in assuming you will be dedicationg this line for drip? Please remember these comments are read by others, so forgive my wanderings - they are attempt to make it relavent for all. If this is dedicated just for drip, the specific set up much simplier. Since drip is really a low presssure, low flow situation, the normal irrigation concerns of presssure loss and volume sufficiency are reduced. But, an...

Saturday, October 18th 2008, 11:22am

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Hooray

Way to go! Jeff

Friday, October 17th 2008, 11:23pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

see your most recent thread for a best guess

Frank, I answered this on your new thread. Jeff

Friday, October 17th 2008, 11:20pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Any electricity at the valve?

Hi Frank: Quote"I'm thinking it is a problem with air or water with the valves.." I don't think that is the source of your problems. Is there any electric current reaching the valves? Do the other valves work from the controller? I'd suspect a short. Since you can activate the valve withthe bleed screw, I suspect an electric short. If problem at more than one valve, check for short in common. Let us know what you find, Jeff

Tuesday, October 14th 2008, 11:46pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Need a little clarification

Hi. I am not certain I understand yur situation, so forgive me if my answer doesn't fit. If you are planning to add a drip systen onto the SAME zone as pop-ups or rotors, you will have problems. With drip, it is low pressure and slow delivery. Just the opposite with spray heads. I run my drip zones off their own valve, since most need to run different schedules and durations than my high volume, high pressure emitters (sprays & rotors). My typical run time for drip is 30 to 60 minutes depending ...

Friday, October 3rd 2008, 11:43am

Author: Lowvolumejeff

metal to PVC transition

Yes, there is a tendancy for metal MPT to FPT PVC threded junctions to leak. Biggest culprit is over zealous tightening, causing small cracks in the female PVC fitting. Then, added to the expansion and contraction caused by temperature changes, this is exacerbated and may lead to a leak. So, I use only MPT PVC to FPT copper or brass. Boots is a pro's pro. So if he want to reverse the above scenerio, I am confident he can without a leak. I use 5 turns of teflon tape on every metal to Male PVC thr...

Thursday, October 2nd 2008, 1:02pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Sand and shock ( thrust ) blocks

- 30 degrees. That is cold., So I suspect in Cleveland, Ohio, the ground wound definitely freezes around these pipes. If so, I think HooKooDooKu is correct. You did not mention soil type, but I suspect Clay. Try Backfilling with sand. It might cushion any shifting. Probably should install some shock (thrust) blocks on those El's, while you are at it. Don't mix clay and sand as the backfill, because what you get is cement. I would dig out around the pipes at least 1 foot, then after your repairs,...

Thursday, October 2nd 2008, 12:43pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

thanks

Thanks drpete, lessons hard learned. Jeff

Tuesday, September 30th 2008, 2:05pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

More info on Borit, Borzit

For more info on using Boriit or Borzit, search for thereads using Borit in the subject line. Jeff

Monday, September 29th 2008, 12:31pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Recent experience with Borzit or Borit (tunneling) under a walkway

Here is my solution to a common problem: Bought a Borit (Borzit) to go under a 22 foot concrete driveway slab. Didn't make it. Almost broke my wrist when the point seized on a large rock or something similar under the driveway at 8 feet. Lost the head, and had to order another. I have used a gas powered drill and electric low revolution, high torque drill motors to drive the bit. Was using the electric one when the point seized, and as I said, lucky I didn't break something. Figured out a safer ...

Friday, September 26th 2008, 6:00pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

yup

Alright, Uncle I don't use Teflon tape on ALL my treaded joints. Just all PVC and copper ones. Don't use risers, and do not use tape on marlex. Boy, we sure gave great answers, I just hope this was the question OscarNav1was asking OscarNav1: Did we answer your question? Jeff

Monday, September 22nd 2008, 4:21pm

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Deactivate? Need a little more info.

I am assuming you wish to turn off several of your roters on a zone, while continuing to use others on that zone. Is this temporary or is it a permanent desire? Partial answer. I do use Rainbird 5000 plus, where the plus signifies the ability to turn off the head by turning a screw on top. I searched the web, and find no mention of the Nelson 6000 having that ability. Bummer So will yield to others with more experience if they say there is a way to turn off individual heads. That said, if you wi...

Sunday, September 21st 2008, 1:29am

Author: Lowvolumejeff

Valve "screws"

Most valves have a "bleed" scew. Open it by turning counter clockwise, and when pressurized, the valve will open, causing water to flow thru it downstream. This is a convient way to manually open the valve. After opening with this screw, you can close the valve by turning it clockwise. The flow adjustment is usually a bigger "screw" which adjust the flow (somewhat) thru the valve when water is flowing thru it. Some use this as an adjustment once the zone is installed, such as in instances where ...