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The last 5 posts

Tuesday, August 24th 2004, 8:14pm

by rmorelli

Yep...
In the setup with the original controller, the water sensor was connected right into the controller. I'd have to check but I remember 2 wires coming from a switch on the wall (that allows you to bypass the switch and them another set of wires that must come from the sensor on the roof. I believe it was one from the bypass connected to a common and then a white and light blue from the wire from the roof joined with the other wire from the bypass switch with a wire nut. One addition red wire from the set of wires from the sensor connected directly to my old controller. When I connect it to the new Rainbird one, I blow the fuse....
(Sorry been away for a few days).
Thanks,
Ray

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by billingsleyj</i>
<br />Ray,

In order to blow a fuse you would have to have the common (ground wire) come contact with the hot wire or power source. Your rain sensor is likely to be a device that connect to the common wire and essentially does not allow current to flow through it when it rains by physically breaking the connection. Does your rain senser connect into your controller?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Friday, August 20th 2004, 10:23am

by billingsleyj

Ray,

In order to blow a fuse you would have to have the common (ground wire) come contact with the hot wire or power source. Your rain sensor is likely to be a device that connect to the common wire and essentially does not allow current to flow through it when it rains by physically breaking the connection. Does your rain senser connect into your controller?

Saturday, August 14th 2004, 6:05pm

by rmorelli

Actually after a few more tests I decided to take a gamble on a new controller. Well - that was it. Hooked up the new controller and everything worked great. Well until I tried to incorporate my rain sensor (which is on the roof and I don't know what model it is). When I try to match how it was hooked up to the Orbit I continually blow a fuse. I have a new Rainbird ESP-8SI. I've got it down to one wire that causes the problem. What's the make up of these sensors? I figured it would be a wire or 2 in and that's it but it seems there is more then that going on in my setup.

Thanks,
Ray

Tuesday, August 10th 2004, 6:16am

by SprinklerGuy

no....probably a bad solenoid on zone 1.

Remove the colored wire from the post that says " 1 " on the controller...then test zone 2. If it works, you kmow you have a bad solenoid or wire on zone 1. If it doesn't work and the symptoms are the same...probably a bad wire totally.

If you could use your multitester that would help tremendously.

Sunday, August 1st 2004, 2:00pm

by rmorelli

Controller - Wiring - Solenoid???

I have an 8 zone system with an Orbit controller model 57xxx. I worked fine for years but all of the sudden after working for the beginning part of this year, the sprinklers won't fire. I can turn then on manually at the value but I can't turn them on using the controller at all. When I try to use it, I see in the controller display that it displays the correct zone, then a hear a small "pop" (fuse tripping) and nothing happens. The display acts like it's working but no water is moving. Sometimes the display actually fades out totally but that is corrected by hitting the red reset (some sort of fuse?) button. Sounds like this button may be connected to the "popping"??
I've read through some posts and saw some info about bad solenoids. How do I test them? Do I remove them from the valve? If not do I just test the leads? I played with one once but it seemed like taking it off may release water?? I have a multi-tester but I have to say I'm not too good with it and don't use it a lot. Thanks in advance for any and all help.....

I just added this to the post -
The more I read here the more it seems to me that I just need a new controller? The fact that I'm having electrical problems and the fact that ALL zones and valves don't fire (electrically) seems to point to the controller. Does that make sense?????

Ray