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The last 3 posts

Friday, April 1st 2011, 11:17am

by Wet_Boots

If you can't do the indoor plumbing to make a new connection, hire a plumber, and get it done right.

Thursday, March 31st 2011, 8:27pm

by Mitchgo

Faucets are generally only 1/2" supply which is 2-3 heads per zone tops.. Is this what you are doing?
You may have a 3/4" hose bib, but odd's are the supply to the hose bib is only 1/2".

Tap in at the main supply from where you service line enters your house which is generally 1" pipe with a 3/4" or 5/8" Meter you can get much more flow which in turn is less valves, wiring and pipe. Money saved

With that being said, in the picture it appears to have copper coming out of the house and then the hose bib is threaded on ( I can't tell from the picture if this is a frost proof hose bib , the ones that the shut off is 6-12" inside the house)
If that's the case- Thread off the hosebib using 2 pipe wrenches ( the second for counter force) Install a brass Tee and then branch out from there with your fittings.

Thursday, March 31st 2011, 9:15am

by Yongkee Cho (Guest)

Need some comments...

I bought a FEBCO 825y for installing my new sprinkler system. I was going to install it by replacing the existing faucet. Copper pipes, fittings, torches and solder are ready. I met a problem here: the faucet is too close to the plastic siding. I am afraid that siding will be melt when I torch the joint.
[img]http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1178/553231679_060f90eadd.jpg?v=0[/img]
I found many neighbours has a separate sprinkler outlet next to the yard faucet. I know it is better to split a new extention for sprinkler, but I doubt I can do it myself.
My question is if there is a way to safely remove the faucet. If I let a plumber install the back flow preventer, what would be the reasonable quote for the job? Again, I prepared everything.
Thank you very much.
Yong