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The last 10 posts

Sunday, August 29th 2010, 6:16pm

by mrfixit

Right, it's simple to damage the diaphragm on a 205 or 711APR. Same bonnet on the two valves. I taught myself a trick to avoid that. I assemble the bonnet, spring and diaphragm together with the screws before attaching to the valve body. I don't poke a hole in the diaphragm that way. You still need to be very careful of the nipple though.

Sunday, August 29th 2010, 4:16pm

by Fireguy97

Apologies Fixit, I was thinking of the 205 series diaphragm. The screw holes are part of the diaphram and can be a pain to line up the first time you are doing it.


Sunday, August 29th 2010, 4:20am

by mrfixit

I'd say putting the screw through the diaphragm on this valve is nearly impossible. The screw doesn't get anywhere near it. You're probably thinking of the 711APR.

Sunday, August 29th 2010, 1:27am

by Fireguy97

When you remove all of the guts from the old valve, make note of how all of the parts were installed. When you re-assemble, be careful with the alignment of the diaphragm. It is very easy to put a screw through the diaphram if you are not careful.


Wednesday, August 25th 2010, 3:12am

by mrfixit

Now that I see which valve it is I'm not 100% sure it's the diaphragm. That's a 2711APR designed to be above ground but I find them in a box all the time. The valve will still come on normally.

The knob you're turning is the bleeder screw. It's supposed to leak when you turn it on.

That valve is very easy to work on. They don't come simpler. I would turn the water off. Take the top of the valve off. Take the solenoid off. Look for a grain of sand or something blocking a port. Check the diaphragm. It might even be the solenoid not opening all the way. A super simple way to fix that valve would be to buy one just like it and swap out all the parts. Even still make sure there's nothing blocking the port where that tiny O-ring goes.

Tuesday, August 24th 2010, 11:11pm

by RLH-CA (Guest)

Cool, thanks!! It's the round disc/knob with the + on it that I turn manually to turn on/off the sprinklers. I hope this helps.

Tuesday, August 24th 2010, 3:07pm

by mrfixit

Go to this site and upload a picture. Use the forum code to post the picture here.

Tuesday, August 24th 2010, 12:06pm

by RLH-CA (Guest)

Is there a way to upload a pic to this thread? I have a pic of my valve, but can't figure out how to show it to you.

Monday, August 23rd 2010, 2:07am

by mrfixit

The diaphragm is probably old and stiff. Simply install a new one. It's a fairly easy job on most valves. Hard to tell from here without knowing which valve you have.

Sunday, August 22nd 2010, 10:08pm

by RLH-CA (Guest)

Toro TMC 212 Sprinkler Station Only Turns On Manually By Valve

Hi....I just noticed that my sprinkler station is not turning on completely when starting via the controller. There are 3 stations, the 2 drip stations come on, but the sprinkler does not turn on all the way. Just a couple of the sprinkler start to shoot out water, but only a tiny bit due to not enough pressure. The other sprinklers don't have enough pressure to even pop up.

There are 3 pipes/valves that are in the yard, 1 for each stations that are linked to the controller. If I turn the valve that controls the sprinklers, then they start running, but they will not turn off unless I physically turn the valve back off. This valve is really more of a small disc shaped knob with a + shape on it, that when turned, sprays out while I'm manually running the sprinklers by physically turning on this knob, it is spraying water out of it.

I'm using a Toro TMC 212 Controller. I hope someone can help....Thank you!!