SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

Thanks Wet_Boots and FireGuy. I replaced the guts and all is working well again. Fireguy on a side note - the first replacement valve I bought had a fracture in it...you are correct that Orbit's quality is very suspect.

Do note that you may not have an easy time obtaining matching parts for an Orbit valve. Professional suppliers laugh at the name, and the local big-box store might have a different model of Orbit valve, compared to what you already have installed.

Quoted from "Tbris"

Replace the whole valve or the "guts"?
Thanks Wet_boots.

It might be easier for you to replace the guts. If your valve is by itself in the irrigation box, replace the whole thing. If the valve is in a manifold with other valves it is going to be a lot more difficult for a non-pro to replace the entire valve.

Mick

I wouldn't waste ten seconds trying to repair an Orbit valve - your patience might be greater.

Replace the whole valve or the "guts"?
Thanks Wet_boots.

Replace the valve

Thanks for the response Mick.

The problem started a few days ago after the last two months and last fall was working perfectly after completely replacing valves 1,2, and 6 and rewiring that box with a new control box (not the model I just installed). The tops are secured tightly, and I don't notice any hairline cracks in valve 2 though I will check again. Again it has a new diaphragm and solenoid. I learned the hard way about cracks when I over tightened my solenoid replacement, thus the need to replace it.
I retested the wiring and this is what i found -

1. When the irrigation wire for valve 2 at the control box is disconnected, zone 2 runs when started by the control box and when all the other zones are started.
2. When the irrigation wire for valve 2 at the control box is disconnected and the wire from the solenoid is disconnected (with the common still connected), zone 2 runs when started by the control box and when all the other zones are started.
3. When the irrigation wire for valve 2 at the control box is disconnected and the wire from the solenoid is disconnected with the common also disconnected, zone 2 runs when started by the control box and when all the other zones are started.
Odd right?

The wire lines from the control box run under the house and see little outside contact. I suppose something could have chewed a wire, but certainly no digging has hurt the lines.

If you think I should still buy a new valve and replace the guts, I do it.
Thanks again for your help,
Tim

To me it sounds like the zone 2 diaphragm needs looking at, or rebuilding the entire valve. If when the irrigation wire is disconnected, the valve still comes on, then I would look elsewhere. Do the heads seep water when the system is off?

When you rebuilt your valves, did you tighten all of the screws down tight? How long was it since the problem started? Did you rebuild it properly? Was the diaphragm and spring installed correctly?

I'm assuming that you purchased your parts from HD. I would get a new valve. Rebuild it by removing the top and guts only, of the old valve. Carefully inspect the old valve base that is still in the valve box. Sometimes there could be a hairline crack in the valve body base. You can feel it by running your fingernail around the top rim of the valve base (where the diaphragm was sitting). If you find a hairline crack you will have to replace the entire valve including base. This could be caused by freezing, or over-tightening the screws.

Otherwise, remove the top and guts from the new valve making careful note of how the parts go together. Install the new top and guts into the old base, effectively rebuilding your valve.

Mick

Zone 2 of my Orbit 6 Valve system always runs while the other 5 zones are turned on either manually or with the control box. Orbit kept assuring me it was a wiring issue and even went so far as to send me a free new model -#57896. I give them credit for their customer service. I'm almost positive I have it wired correctly and have triple checked the wires to make sure they match up with the colors at the valves. I also have two white wires in the common valve slot and one blue wire in the pump slot.
The 6 valve system comprises of 1,2, and 6 in the west box and 3,4,5 in the east box. There is an anti-siphon valve next to the west box and it is connected to the common wire and the pump wire. I have replaced valves 1,2, and 6 and replaced the solenoids last fall- and have since double checked the diaphragms and cleanliness of these valves and their wires, but have done no rewiring or checks of the east box.
I've disconnected the zone 2 control box wire and zone 2 still turns on. Also when I manually turn on the system at the anti-siphon valve, zone 2 is the only one that runs and the others will too if I loosen the solenoid. I just can't figure out how the wiring could cause this problem - BUT is it possible that lets say zone 5 in the east box has a bad solenoid or diaphragm, that it would cause this problem? Do I need to revamp all those valves as well?
I'm happy to add some pictures if needed and I hope my info was thorough enough.
Sprinklers are quickly becoming the bane of my existence.
Thanks for any help.