You are not logged in.

  • Login
  • Register

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 1065 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 10 posts

Tuesday, June 22nd 2010, 7:40am

by Wet_Boots

Same deal - less hammer, longer system life

Monday, June 21st 2010, 7:27am

by secutanudu

Quoted from "Wet_Boots"

The RPZ will likely last much longer if it isn't subjected to hammering, so good for you for adding the PRV!
Thanks! Actually - it's a double-check valve assembly (Watts 007) if that matters.

Monday, June 21st 2010, 7:13am

by Wet_Boots

The RPZ will likely last much longer if it isn't subjected to hammering, so good for you for adding the PRV!

Sunday, June 20th 2010, 9:04pm

by secutanudu

Quoted from "Wet_Boots"

There is additional pressure loss in a PRV beyond what the usual charts will show. There are certainly variations of the Watts PRVs with set points beyond 75 psi, but they are special-order and expensive. The Wilkins BR4 has the high range built in, and with an RPZ downstream, you figure to not see as much as 50 psi by the time the water reaches the heads, when you have a 75 psi regulator upstream of the system. If you don't need 50 psi at the heads, any regulator should do the trick.

Thanks. I had the watts 25-75 regulator so I installed it. Seems to be working fine...SLIGHTLY smaller range on the sprinkler heads though. I have two zones in the front yard (the house is at the top of a hill). One zone is across the bottom, near the street, one zone is across the top. Each zone is 4 hunter heads.

After installing the watts regulator (and removing the hunter one in the valve box), the top ones almost hit the street. The bottom ones go about 2/3rds the way up the hill. This is ok, right? There is full head-to-head coverage within each zone (side to side).

Sunday, June 20th 2010, 8:34am

by Wet_Boots

There is additional pressure loss in a PRV beyond what the usual charts will show. There are certainly variations of the Watts PRVs with set points beyond 75 psi, but they are special-order and expensive. The Wilkins BR4 has the high range built in, and with an RPZ downstream, you figure to not see as much as 50 psi by the time the water reaches the heads, when you have a 75 psi regulator upstream of the system. If you don't need 50 psi at the heads, any regulator should do the trick.

Friday, June 18th 2010, 1:12pm

by HooKooDooKu

Since you're installing the Watts back at the copper, won't it be MORE work to remove the plastic pressure regulator? (Given that you've got PLENTY of pressure to work with).

Friday, June 18th 2010, 9:22am

by secutanudu

Hmmm...what about ONLY using the watts brass regulator and removing the plastic one (which, by the way, says it can be used with incoming pressure of like 200+psi).

I'd just leave the watts one at 75 and be done with it...

Friday, June 18th 2010, 8:57am

by HooKooDooKu

Many pressure regulators (at least those PVC plastice fixed pressure presure regulators) are not designed for incomming pressures above 150psi and state that you need TWO of them in series when operating pressures are that high.

So if your plan is to ADD the Watts pressure regulator at the copper before the transition to PVC, and leave the irrigation pressure regulator in place as well, then it sounds like a good plan... however, I seem to also recall that pressure regulators need something like a 15psi pressure gradient across them to work properly. So I would further suggest that if the irrigation regulator is adjustable, lower it to 50psi if the watts is set to 75psi. Otherwise, if you want to keep the irrigation regulator at 70 (or if it's a fixed regulator), then the Watt regulator needs to be set to about 90psi.

Friday, June 18th 2010, 8:38am

by secutanudu

Quoted from "Wet_Boots"

Get a Wilkins BR4 pressure reducer and install it upstream of the backflow preventer. The Wilkins can be adjusted to set points above 100 psi. Let it take the brunt of the hammer forces.
Only problem is I am going down to my parents this weekend and may not have time to order the WIlkins. I don't know of any stores that carry them. I know I don't want more than 75 PSI anyway....would a watts one set at 75 PSI cause me any issues?

Friday, June 18th 2010, 8:29am

by Wet_Boots

Get a Wilkins BR4 pressure reducer and install it upstream of the backflow preventer. The Wilkins can be adjusted to set points above 100 psi. Let it take the brunt of the hammer forces.