You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 1990 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 4 posts

Tuesday, June 9th 2009, 9:09pm

by Wet_Boots

That valve design dates back around forty years - it will still be around when everyone reading this page today is worm food.

Tuesday, June 9th 2009, 2:36pm

by debo

For valves, an Irritrol 205 will be repairable forever, and they are not known for cracking. For heads, the field is wide open - you replace entire heads, not just the innards, unless it happens you have the exact same head as the one being replaced. For a controller by Hunter, consider the Pro-C, as it has some additional features that can pay back the extra investment.
I must disagree since "repairable forever" will outlive you.;

Wednesday, June 3rd 2009, 2:47pm

by Wet_Boots

For valves, an Irritrol 205 will be repairable forever, and they are not known for cracking. For heads, the field is wide open - you replace entire heads, not just the innards, unless it happens you have the exact same head as the one being replaced. For a controller by Hunter, consider the Pro-C, as it has some additional features that can pay back the extra investment.

Wednesday, June 3rd 2009, 8:21am

by DIY-Mom-in-MA (Guest)

Brand/Model Advice Please - Replacing Broken Rotors, Valves, Controller

Hi All - I need to replace a whole bunch of rotors, a couple of valves and the controller in a 20+ yo system.

System:
Old (very) Weathermatic 11-zone controller, 8 zones in use
Rainbird 100-JTV master valve (the threaded inlet just cracked on the valve),
Weathermatic 12024E zone valves (at least this is the current model number for them).
5 zones have four 4" pop-up rotors each. 3 zones are combinations of assorted spray heads.
Water Pressure very good all over (maybe too high)

Rotors: A bunch of the rotors have been gone over with a lawnmower and need replacing. Any recommendations on Hunter vs Rainbird and any model suggestions? Hunter has the PGP and the new PGP-Ultra ... is the Ultra worth the extra couple of dollars? I don't know anything about Rainbird - advice please?

Also - most of the damage to the rotors is at the top. Can a new unit just be dropped into the existing housing that is connected to the water line? Can a Hunter unit go into a Rainbird housing? Rainbird into a Hunter unit? (I'd rather avoid having to dig down to the supply line connection to replace the entire unit).

Valves: I need to replace the Master Valve (just beyond the backflow preventer). The threaded inlet just cracked and the system had to be shut down. The current valve is a very short valve - only 4" long. Also, I don't think it has flow control. Is flow control needed in a master valve? Any brand suggestions? Should I just replace with the same model to ensure it fits in the (very small) box?

Controllers: I need to replace the controller and I think I've narrowed it down to the Hunter SRC900i and the Rainbird STPi 900. And comments one way or another? I don't need a 'dummy-proof' system but I'd like one that doesn't require engineering and meteorological degrees.

Any advice very much appreciated.