You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 2662 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 5 posts

Sunday, July 8th 2007, 6:11pm

by Bill Painter

Some of the 2600 valves had a knob just below the solenoid that could also be turned back and forth to internally bleed the valve. If yours has one be sure it't all the way closed clockwise as well as the solenoid.
Also.... if the drip valve has a center stem (flow control) tighten that down a half turn at a time while it's running and see if the valve closes. It may well be damned near fully closed before it does close! If it continues to run and will only stop passing water until the flow control is fully closed, I'd be suspect of the diaphragm or blocked solenoid port.

Thursday, June 28th 2007, 5:38am

by jjgriffmn

Mine are jar top as well. They came undone fairly easily.

good luck


Wednesday, June 27th 2007, 6:57pm

by Wanabe

Thanks. I'm inclined to agree with your last statement. I just seems strange that the solenoid would happen to go bad at that exact moment.

I'll see if I can get into the valves. Unfortunately they're "jar top" valves. It sounds like these can be a challenge to get into sometimes. Hopefully I can get enough muscle on the top to screw it off. I don't have the luxury of just removing a hand full of screws.

Wednesday, June 27th 2007, 7:41am

by jjgriffmn

I had kind of the same problem. I had a zone that was always on while my system was on. When the system was through with it's cycle, it would turn off.

I took apart a couple of valves to see how they worked, and I now had 2 zones always on. (My sprinkler guy thinks that I sent some debris down line when I took apart the stuck valve).....made sense.

It soulds like your valve is stuck or clogged w/ debris.

Take apart the valves in question. It may be stuck, clogged or damaged.

Just put them back together carefully. It sholw fix the problem....

FYI. Ive read in a couple of places on this site that it's almost NEVER the soleniod.


Sunday, June 24th 2007, 10:46am

by Wanabe

One zone won't turn off....another leaks!

Hi All:

I have 6 Zones (5 spray and 1 drip). Today I discovered that my drip system is still "dripping" when the valve is turned off. After reading some of the information in this forum it sounds like it could either have a bad Solenoid or Valve if I'm understanding correctly.

Also, while playing around with one of the Solenoid valves on one of my spray zones I found that you could manually turn on a zone by turning the Solenoid counter-clockwise. Unfortunately, after doing this, I tightened the Solenoid back into place and the zone will not turn off. This is one of my spray zones. Not the drip zone.

It seems that my drip problem has now turned into a second problem.

In the interim, I've turned off the water feeding my sprinkler system until I get this all sorted out.

FYI - My 5 spray zones are using Richdel 2600T valves. From what it sounds like Irritrol 2600 is the same thing. I can't see what type of valve is on the drip zone. It seems to be buried and only the solenoid is exposed.

Any assistance...MUCH APPRECIATED!

Thanks,
Wanabe