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The last 10 posts

Friday, June 8th 2018, 5:15pm

by geobrick

The picture I was looking at is here on the Irritrol website but I see what you mean. The picture is likely a bigger valve. I looked at the "models and dimensions" section below the image and saw the 1" version is the smallest of the 100 Series so the picture is likely one of the bigger models.

Issue solved.

Friday, June 8th 2018, 1:41pm

by mrfixit

I'm talking about the metering rod. The stainless steel rod.

The picture you're looking at with the brass is a bigger valve than a 1". The two bonnets I had were identical. Both plastic.
Actually I don't have a clue which pictures you're looking at.

Yes it's cheaper but I the knowledge is more valuable to me. I'm going to see if that diaphragm will work as well. I doubt it will but again, who knows.

Friday, June 8th 2018, 12:56pm

by geobrick

Interesting. Does your new trick save you on cost or does it just help to know they're interchangeable?


To me the website image of the 100 Series looks different around the shaft area. 1) the stem on the 100 Series seems to be brass and 2) the shaft on the 100 Series image has reinforcing "ribs" (not sure what else to call them) going halfway up the shaft but the 300 Series is just a cylinder at that point. Do you notice that on the website too? Do the 100 Series you have access to look like the website images? Maybe you can post a photo of the tops side by side. I don't know why I'm so fascinated by this.


Also, when you say "Only the metal rod was longer on the 300", do you mean the thin clean out rod? And... why is it called a cleanout rod? What is it cleaning out?

Thursday, June 7th 2018, 10:51pm

by mrfixit

Ok, today just happened to coincide with your post.

I had to rebuild a 100 series valve and one of the jobs had some 300 series that I installed probably 10 years ago.

The old 300 valve adapters also said series 100 on them. So at the next house I rebuilt a 300 valve using the bonnet off of a 100 valve. I had the bonnets off of a brand new 300 and a brand new 100 side by side in my hands and they were identical. Both said series 100 on them. Only the metal rod was longer on the 300 so I replaced that with the original one from the valve I was rebuilding. Of course I needed a new double beaded diaphragm so it would be compatible with the bonnet. It did the job.
If anybody does it this way, I recommend you get longer screws for the bonnet. Like 1/4". I had some on my truck.

So no worries about the bonnet saying series 100 on them. That's just Rainbird saving money.

I have a new trick in my arsenal now. It's all your fault.

Wednesday, June 6th 2018, 8:35pm

by mrfixit

hmm. Interesting. I'll have to check it out. Maybe the two valve use the same bonnet. I didn't think they did but who knows. I'm sure I haven't checked in quite a while.
I just bought a 300 valve today. Maybe I'll swap parts and see what happens. I'd imagine the stems are different and will need swapped as well.

Wednesday, June 6th 2018, 6:35pm

by geobrick

I ordered the 300 Series instead of the 2623DPR. It's the same but made of glass reinforced nylon.

I received them today but noticed they're stamped "100 Series" not 300 Series. May just be a minor manufacturing error because they look exactly like the 300 Series and nothing like the 100 Series.

Here's a picture and a close-up of the number.



Sunday, June 3rd 2018, 9:17pm

by geobrick

Just change the actuator. The brass body lasts forever. The only thing that might need replacing is the float if the rubber washer is bad. Or the cap washer which will come in the float kit.
I like the Irritrol 2623DPR. I've installed hundreds of them. I haven't had a problem since 2000 when there was a design flaw.
Or if you're changing the whole valve. I like the 2700 series.
If you install these valves in place of your brass valve bodies just note that the ports will be farther apart on the new valves and the pipes will need to be modified to fit.
I'm not going to get the whole valve if I need to modify the pipes. I'll just assume you are right and the brass valves will last forever. I do find the cap gaskets seem to fail once in a while. I've also broken several caps that were jammed over the years. I started using anti-seize compound on the threads to prevent it (so far it seems to work). The floats seem to last forever and the rubber washer can be cleaned up and put back on the float. Over the years I've had issues with slow seeping from sprinkler heads when the valve is supposed to be off. Sometimes an actuator will work fine on one valve but not on another. Strange issues.
Just make sure you know what size valve to get. 3/4" or 1".
Got it. My Champion valves are all one inch.

Friday, June 1st 2018, 7:08pm

by mrfixit

Just change the actuator. The brass body lasts forever. The only thing that might need replacing is the float if the rubber washer is bad. Or the cap washer which will come in the float kit.
I like the Irritrol 2623DPR. I've installed hundreds of them. I haven't had a problem since 2000 when there was a design flaw.

Or if you're changing the whole valve. I like the 2700 series.
If you install these valves in place of your brass valve bodies just note that the ports will be farther apart on the new valves and the pipes will need to be modified to fit.

Just make sure you know what size valve to get. 3/4" or 1".

Friday, June 1st 2018, 6:50pm

by geobrick

MrFixit, Which Irrotrol Valves or Actuators do you like? I'll try some.

My system is plumbed for a union fitting on the output side of the valve. Do they make valves like that? I didn't see any on their website. I could try just an actuator.

Friday, June 1st 2018, 12:36pm

by Wet_Boots

Champion/Arrowhead had some production issues, but they can probably stick around. At least their website is back up. Arrowhead no-lead frost-free sillcocks might be their biggest money-maker now.