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The last 10 posts

Sunday, June 5th 2016, 2:14pm

by mtmtntop

finally fixed it

it seems it was more than one thing. replacing diaphragms fixed one zone. it seems the other zone was either not having the manual valve all the way shut because tree roots were in the way or the roots were applying enough pressure to allow the water past the o ring. after taking apart all 3 valves that were in this box, i have a leak free box again, no tree roots and zones that stay closed.

solenoids were replaced, but i had this issue with the control box totally disconnected ,as soon as i turned on the water valve; so as someone earlier told me, the problem was in the valve, which it was. thanks for the help.

Sunday, June 5th 2016, 1:21pm

by Wet_Boots

change the entire valve when you aren't certain what to look for - some valve bodies can develop internal cracks - some fail because of sloppy installation (too much glue) - of course you checked to make sure there are no issues with the solenoids (yes, no?)

Sunday, June 5th 2016, 11:43am

by mtmtntop

changed diaphragms still stuck open

i changed out the diaphragms and still have 2 open zones. this is with controller off. its hard to believe that the valve bodies themselves are somehow broken and 2 of them in one season? do i really have to change out the valves themselves? i dont see any other parts that i can replace. i took out the rings that seat the diphragms and they are intact. thanks

Sunday, May 29th 2016, 7:09pm

by Wet_Boots

stuck-open valve plus unplugged controller equals mechanical failure of the valve - diaphragm assembly is the top suspect - just replace the valve

Sunday, May 29th 2016, 5:08pm

by mtmtntop

replaced solenoids, still have open valve

i replaced the solenoids on 3 valves which were the closest to the house and all in the same underground box. i still have one circuit that runs when the controller is turned off and the water is on. it makes no difference if i open and close the manual valve on that circuit. i am guessing that i need a whole new valve unit? what makes the valve units go out in the first place? could it be from a power surge? this system was hardwired, but i am thinking to put it to a plug going through a surge protector. thanks for the help.

Monday, May 16th 2016, 8:44pm

by mtmtntop

got it. thanks. i'll update when i get it working

Monday, May 16th 2016, 8:27pm

by Wet_Boots

If zones are running when the controller has no power, the problem is not the controller, it's the valves.

Monday, May 16th 2016, 7:46pm

by mtmtntop

or would i just be better off replacing the controller? I have 10 zones. at least 4 are open when i turn the water on now.when you said to maybe replace the module, is this the unit inside the controller or isthe module attached to the valve? i am trying to figure out if i have to replace valve parts or controller parts. thanks

Monday, May 16th 2016, 7:12pm

by mtmtntop

i threw the breaker to the unit because it was hard wired, and disconnected the battery. when i turn on the water, all the zones near the house are running. 1 more piece of information has come up. my neighbor has the exact same problem. i am not sure of his brand controller. so next question, is it toast or can i replace a part? thanks for the help

Thursday, May 12th 2016, 4:22pm

by SunCoLawns

Do the valves shut when you unplug it? If not, it's a valve issue. One issue with the 212 is, after a power surge or lightning strike one or more zones may run continuously. Sometimes this can be rectified by replacing the module for that zone, sometimes not.