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The last 10 posts

Wednesday, August 19th 2015, 12:49pm

by Wet_Boots

Sprinkler valves in your area might be each in their own individual small round valve box, so the grass can easily grow over them. Pros use a locator to follow the wires. You can rent one.

Tuesday, August 18th 2015, 8:54pm

by varuscelli

I isolated the problem with our system to zone 5 and for a short-term solution just turned that zone off. Now I have seven of the eight zones working and just skip the problem zone. I've cycled the system through a couple of times without incident.

Having been married to my wife for only two years and not living here when she had the system installed about six years ago, I'm not as familiar with the system setup as I'd like to be. She has kept pretty good track of any maintenance that she has had done, but over the time frame since installation she has had only a few sprinkler heads replaced. She was at first not able to locate the system layout, but actually found that today.

Now I have a rough idea where the valves are located, but our ground here right now is like baked brick given that we have been under drought-like conditions for the last couple of months. "Gently" probing the ground is not even an easy option at the moment. I'm actually a bit worried about the potential of doing some peripheral harm to the system with too much probing to find the valves. Maybe I'm being overly cautious. I suppose I could just soak the ground in that area and make for a little easier digging. (?)

As much as I enjoy looking into this stuff myself for educational purposes or just to do it, I might find it easier to call in an expert for at least a service call at this point. But I'm also pretty sure I could test and/or change out a solenoid I can relatively easily get to it for testing to see if it needs replacing.

Monday, August 17th 2015, 10:53am

by varuscelli

Well, heck. I should have looked at the manual that was linked earlier in the thread.

I assumed the fuse that was in the controller was the original and correct fuse (no recollection here of anyone other than the original installer working in the controller box). Sure enough I see where it the manual calls for a .5 amp fuse. Man, thanks for pointing that out. I'll look at testing once I've got the right fuses in hand.

Monday, August 17th 2015, 9:50am

by Wet_Boots

The fuse is supposed to be one-half amp, according to the manual. You need a pack of new fuses (normally five per pack) of the correct value and also a new transformer. If you don't want to run out of fuses right away, you also need to do a resistance test of each zone, to find out which one(s) have a solenoid short circuit.

Monday, August 17th 2015, 8:57am

by varuscelli

If your replacement fuse is correctly sized, it should blow long before the transformer's own internal fuse gives out.

Thanks, Wet_Boots.

The previous fuse was 3 Amp 250 Volt and I replaced it with 3 Amp 250 Volt (fast blow fuse). I tested the fuse and it tested as still good after the transformer failed.

I wonder if it's possible that I just got a defective transformer?

The transformer worked briefly (about a day...but might have failed during the sprinkling cycle; I'm not sure since I set it all to run starting at 1 a.m. -- I watched the system start but didn't watch the entire cycle, and by the time I noticed the transformer was not working it was many hours past the cycle time and I couldn't tell if all zones had been watered).

Monday, August 17th 2015, 5:43am

by Wet_Boots

If your replacement fuse is correctly sized, it should blow long before the transformer's own internal fuse gives out.

Sunday, August 16th 2015, 11:55pm

by varuscelli

Argh.

The new transformer lasted for about 24 hours before it failed, too.

I am at a loss. :(

Saturday, August 15th 2015, 4:31pm

by varuscelli

OK -- replaced the old transformer with a new one and we are back in business.

Again, many thanks for the help and advice!

My wife says "Thank you" too. :)

Saturday, August 15th 2015, 1:26pm

by varuscelli

Well, I'm back again. The system ran fine for a couple of days after replacing the fuse, but today it is back to apparently only internal battery power (LCD display showing PR OFF again). I tried a new fuse, even though the other one I had put in seemed good. Nothing changed with the new fuse.

Interestingly, the plugged-in transformer is now cold to the touch whereas before it had always been at least slightly warm. I'm not sure what my ability to test anything else in the controller would be at this point.

I'm thinking my next step is to change out the transformer and see what happens -- unless I get a more likely suggestion as to what to look for or try to test at this point... :)

Thursday, August 13th 2015, 11:47am

by Central Irrigation

MrFixit for the win!