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The last 9 posts

Tuesday, April 22nd 2014, 7:34pm


Got it and thanks. Leave the valve where it is and move the pump, reconnecting it to the valve with various elbows; I will try to use 45° elbows as much as possible.

Tuesday, April 22nd 2014, 11:03am

by Wet_Boots

If your objective is to move the indexing valve to be above the concrete pad, that's a lot of work. If the objective is to relocate the pump, then go ahead and relocate it, and don't worry about how you reconnect it to the indexing valve. Pipe elbows do not cause great pressure losses. (proof of this is seen by charts showing the equivalence of one pipe elbow to a few feet of straight pipe)

Monday, April 21st 2014, 7:18pm


Let's see if this works.


So, you're saying to use elbows to extend and reroute the outside pipes over the concrete, and then rotate and put my valve the way I want to point it? But I don't want to add a lot of elbows since that will cause resistance and reduce pressure slightly, right? Or not really?

I wish I could drill the concrete and have the pipes stick out of it, but I think that would be doing a lot more work than necessary. Plus, where would I find a 1.5 inch drill bit to drill the 4 holes, or one huge hole 4" across.
My reason for moving the pump is to build a wooden shed cover over all pumps and pool equipment to protect them from sun and rain and to hide it from plain view. That's why I would like to have everything contained inside that space.

Saturday, April 19th 2014, 3:06pm

by Wet_Boots

Last time I heard, pipe elbows don't cost a fortune, so if you needed a dozen of them to alter the system, no big deal. Were there tight spaces to deal with, that's where union fittings enter the scene. Just dig up the indexing valve and reconnect the dots, once the pump is relocated, if the above-ground plumbing must be just so, since what you do to the underground plumbing will be out-of-sight-out-of-mind.

By the way, it is customary to employ a free image host for photos, since the means to post them is the picture-postcard button above the message box. Imageshack was a favorite, but they now require registration for using their free service, so Tinypic is a choice for free image hosting, and no registration required for now. Bring back the image URL and use the button.

Friday, April 18th 2014, 10:14am



I got you a picture, and I continue to thank you for your help. The 20kb limitation makes it tough to post though.

I want to rotate/move that blue well pump to where the black triangle is. My valve on the right has the active zones with a red circle, and the empty ones with green. In looking at it and if I have to keep the active zones in 1 and 3 per the documentation, it looks like my only option is to keep it as it is, and put in 2-45 degree bends to the left of the sediment filter. However, because of this new shortened length, I won't be able to fit the pressure-relief valve and the red ball valve.

I may not be able to do this.
NABRIL has attached the following file:
  • VALVE.jpg (12.16 kB - 62 times downloaded - Last download: May 18th 2014, 6:49pm)

Friday, April 18th 2014, 9:12am

by Wet_Boots

Absent a photo of the actual physical installation, it will be difficult to envision any need to reposition the indexing valve, when you can fit in an additional zone or two with the valve just as it is. In any event, you are not going to be certain your rotation idea can work, and there is a very limited knowledge base on these indexing valves, being that their market does not extend far beyond Florida. Better to assume it won't work.

It would be far more practical to simply consider every bit of the above-ground sprinkler plumbing as replaceable, when and if you expand the system. Depending on the amount of distance between the valve outlets, you may or may not be able to employ PVC unions to minimize the amount of additional plumbing required, when you decide to add a zone or two.

Thursday, April 17th 2014, 2:51pm



The attached picture represents my valve, and I have 2 lines capped for future expansion (numbers 2 and 4), and my 2 active zones are 1 and 3. So. I want to rotate my valve 45 degrees to the left, and the tubes obviously stick out of the ground, which I will cut for this rotation and reseal with couplings. Because of the turn, my active zones may now end up in holes 2 and 4, instead of my present 1 and 3. Is that ok?

In the documentation of the valve I read that this valve has interchangeable cams for two, three or four
zone operation. I assume that since I only have 2 zones, the installer left me the 2 zone cam.

Further down in the documentation, it states that if you use the 2 zone cam, you HAVE TO use holes 1 and 3 for the active zones. Therefore, it looks like I have to make sure that I realign the tubes just as I have them after my 45 degree turn, correct? Or I can dig up the pipes to realign, but that would be insane.
NABRIL has attached the following file:
  • HYDRO 6000.jpg (19.18 kB - 3 times downloaded - Last download: Apr 18th 2014, 8:58am)

Tuesday, April 8th 2014, 1:02pm

by Wet_Boots

Maybe some photos would help out here. It is difficult to envision any need to reposition an indexing valve.

Monday, April 7th 2014, 10:48am


Rotating/turning my Hydrotek 6000 valve


I am contemplating moving (rotating) my pump 90 degrees, and, of course, I will have to cut my existing 1.5" pipes that feed my Hydrotek 6000 valve, so that I can rotate it 90 degrees. I am using it with 2 zones, and I believe they are holes 1 and 3; the other 2 are capped.

In looking at the documentation I see that the irrigation pipes/lines have to be in opposing holes. Once I cut all 4 pipes, can I rotate the valve and use 2 and 4? When using this valve, does it matter which 2 you use as long as they are in opposing holes?