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The last 6 posts

Wednesday, May 23rd 2007, 6:01pm

by Wet_Boots

Reboot the controller, according to your instruction manual. Solid state controllers are capable of early death due to voltage spikes.

Wednesday, May 23rd 2007, 3:56pm

by leebou

Sorry it's taken me a few days to get back to you. I was only able to swap the solenoids with no success. Before I could
try cleaning the passage ways or the valve outlet we suffered a power outage in my area. Now my controller has no display. The AC power and battery check out. I believe I have an irrigation system from ****. By the way the controller is a NELSON SmartZone Model 8504. Any help with the controller now would be appreciated. Thanks.

Monday, May 21st 2007, 1:03pm

by Bill Painter

Is the valve in queston a Rainbird Brass valve? They're notorious for the downstream male adapter plugging the bleeder port.
Mrfixit and WetBoots gave sage advice.

Sunday, May 20th 2007, 11:24am

by mrfixit

Try cleaning the outlet port on the valve body itself. I'll use a drill on some brass valves. Also with the Irritrol valve if you put a second O-ring under the solenoid the valve will usually operate with the symptoms you've given. That's not the best answer but it works. I'm not sure which solenoid you've installed. If it's the one with the white plastic piece holding the plunger in place. Take that plastic thing off and throw it away. Good luck!

Sunday, May 20th 2007, 10:01am

by Wet_Boots

Sounds like a problem with the bonnet (what you called 'valve top') on the original non-working valve ~ look to see that there are no restrictions in the solenoid passageways. Swap solenoids, and recheck operation, to make certain the solenoids themselves aren't the problem.

Sunday, May 20th 2007, 8:58am

by leebou

Irritrol 205 series electric valve

My irrigation system has 4 irritrol valves installed below grade level in a box. All zones work fine except for #3, which will not operate with enough pressure to actuate the pop-up sprinklers.I have replaced the diaphram and the solenoid with no success. If I open the bleed valve the system works fine with more than enough pressure.
I swapped the top assemply of Valve #3 with Valve #2 keeping the same electrical connections to each. Valve #2 works great with the guts from #3 but #2(which is now in former #3's valve body) still does not have enough pressure to operate the sprinkler heads. If I open the bleed screw a little it runs fine and will turn off automatically on time out. It will not work on turn on even though you can hear the solenoid operate and hear some small amount of water flow.
I hope I've made this clear to you and would greatly appreciate any advice you might offer. Thanks