You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 2801 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 9 posts

Wednesday, March 21st 2007, 2:42am

by drpete3

by the way I like saddle fittings. very quick and I have had no problems with them.

Thursday, March 15th 2007, 5:50am

by HooKooDooKu

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JohnGalt</i>
...Is there a practical maximum length to pull (3/4 acre yard)? If pulling pvc, what do you do, stop pulling every 20 feet and glue another section on? Honestly, I'm paranoid about the glued joints giving way while pulling!
...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I've noticed that the glue joints on 20' sections of PVC are ridiculously long. While the typical PVC fitting is on the order of 1/2" to 1-1/2" (depending upon pipe size) in length, these 20' sections of PVC have molded fittings for joining several pieces that are like 3"-4" long. That means that the stress on the joint is spread across a HUGE area, so I would guess that the joint would be strong enough for pulling in just a few minutes.

Thursday, March 15th 2007, 4:57am

by drpete3

you can get a T into the poly after its pulled. No problems with that. I too would advise poly except for the main line(upto your valves). I will also tell you that the stuff at Lowes etc. is fine.

Thursday, March 15th 2007, 4:57am

by Tom

John- I've never used saddle fittings, although they do seem popular. I've always used insert fittings. I just dig a 12" or so hole, cut the pipe, put on the clamps and wiggle in the fitting. Usually one section of the pipe will slide "fairly" easily to accomodate this. If that doesn't work also dig up for the head next in line. I'd guess thats 10 to 30' away(depending on sprays or rotors). Then, that section of pipe between the 2 heads ought to slide very easily making it easy to use insert fittings. Work your way down your zone in that manner and your last head will only need a elbow fitting.


Tony- I could help you with pulling a job. Once you do one its easy as heck.
grdmas@aol.com

Wednesday, March 14th 2007, 1:54pm

by SprinklerGuy

Tom...

Will you pull the pipe at my next job for me?

Wednesday, March 14th 2007, 1:09pm

by JohnGalt

I didn't think to ask that question, but based on the replies I got, they don't seem too interested. I'll have to call some plumbing supply houses.

I think I'm gonn go with poly. But another question...when you run a long length and need to locate some sprinkler heads along that length, once the pipe is pulled there's no give to install a tee fitting. Are the saddle connectors a must, or can you get enough wiggle room to install a tee? Can you use saddle connectors on 100# poly? Will they disrupt the flow too much for the rest of the heads on that line?

Thanks for the insight.

JG

Wednesday, March 14th 2007, 11:08am

by Tom

I just reread the last part of your post. It looks like you already checked with supply houses for poly. It sounds as if they don't even carry it. Can they order it for you?


Wednesday, March 14th 2007, 11:04am

by Tom

In Colorado, I've only pulled poly pipe(80# to 100#) for residential systems. 99% of residential systems here are poly.



Don't use the poly pipe from home depot or lowes(its difficult too work with in my opinion). There ought to be a sprinkler supply house somewhere close to you. Some of them will sell to homeowners at a retail price, but you will get high quality material.

You will have better freeze protection with poly pipe-although you'll still need to blow out the system.

With poly pipe you can pull in curves very easily.

You may also find a contractor willing to pull the pipe for you.

Poly vs. PVC depends on your sprinkler design to some extent. If you have a run a mainline, I would run PVC for that. You can then run poly the rest of the way.




Wednesday, March 14th 2007, 10:11am

by JohnGalt

Thoroughly confused-poly vs pvc!!!!!

Okay, I've read every post I can find on the subject on this forum and I'm no better off that at the outset.

It seems that poly vs pvc is a personal preference, no big reason not to use either. So I have a couple of questions about pulling with a vibratory plow.

Can you pull gentle curves and arcs with poly or pvc? Is the pvc likely to break? Is it a must that either be pulled straight?

Is it more common to pull completely straight and just use fittings and right angles only?

Is there a practical maximum length to pull (3/4 acre yard)? If pulling pvc, what do you do, stop pulling every 20 feet and glue another section on? Honestly, I'm paranoid about the glued joints giving way while pulling!

And lastly, whereintheheck can I get poly pipe in quantity in the Richmond Va area? All the supply houses just tell me "oh, I never heard of anyone using poly around here, only down at the beach", so the only place I can find it is at Lowes and only 160psi at 1". And I understand that 160psi is intended for constant pressure, no?

Thanks very much for addressing a very well worn topic.

JG