You are not logged in.


Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 4272 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 7 posts

Tuesday, October 10th 2006, 5:31am

by Fire24

W.B. that is exactly why I asked that question about putting a saddle tee on a poly pipe bend. My concern was that the outside of the poly (being in tension on a bend) would cause the hole to be stretched oblong into an ellipse, perhaps resulting in a leak. I figured they would be better suited for straight runs of poly. On a rainbird design all the lines may be straight and all turns at 90 degrees, but in reality (at least as far as how I was going to do things), I'm coming out of the valve and going to end up sweeping that main poly line in an arc and then teeing off of it to each head. There will be some straight runs, but a lot of bends.

Thanks for that info.

Monday, October 9th 2006, 8:26am

by Wet_Boots

Time will tell on Blazing Saddles. The one possible knock on all saddle tees is that the pulling of poly pipe can stretch it. Cutting the pipe, and installing insert fittings, allows for the stretched pipe to 'relax' ~ I have seen leaks on old systems at saddle tee locations, where there would not have been a leak, had an insert fitting been used instead.

Sunday, October 8th 2006, 7:04pm

by Fire24

W.B. I agree with you and have no intention of cutting corners on anything here. I will use the black poly-coated irrigation wire that can be buried, but even with that, I thought maybe it would be still be recommended to run it in some type of conduit, such as poly pipe.

I take it you've never used blazing saddles? I've been trying to get some kind of read on whether they are effective or not. I've seen a couple members promote them, but don't see a lot of others commenting on how "good" they are. I know I can use tees where blazing saddles could be used and straight adapters for the last sprinkler head on that circuit, but if the B.S.'s were reliable, it would save me from cutting the pipe and clamping. Although if I end up clamping, I would like to use the Oetikers.

I'm going to have a valve box on each side of my house. The areas there are not very wide, so poly the line coming out of the valve that will service the circuit nearest to the valve box will have to make a pretty sharp turn right or left. Do you recommend just using an elbow to make the turn? I don't know how flexible poly is, and how sharp of a turn it can make.

Friday, October 6th 2006, 1:28pm

by Wet_Boots

For standard heads (no gigantic nozzles) even ten feet of funny pipe won't harm things.

Wire is a tougher item to give opinions on. Nothing but black poly-coated 'irrigation wire' is suitable for being pulled along with the poly pipe. If you wanted to try snaking electrical fish tape through lengths of poly pipe, and pulling cheaper thermostat wire back through it, it could work. It depends on distance between groups of valves.

Friday, October 6th 2006, 10:01am

by Fire24

Thanks Wet Boots. Is there any maximum length for funny pipe? One that I should try not to exceed such a 12", 18", etc? Also, when running the wires for the valves (I'll have 13 valves), I know there is wire approved for burial in the ground, but do you recommend running it in some type of conduit?

Thanks again for the reply.

Friday, October 6th 2006, 4:29am

by Wet_Boots

There are insert fittings for poly pipe that connect to funny pipe (both tees and straight adapters) ~ Consider plowing in the pipe and setting the heads <b>before</b> doing the sod. Depending on your soil, it could be the better part of a year, before the sod becomes firmly attached to the soil underneath it.

Thursday, October 5th 2006, 3:27pm

by Fire24

Installation before or after sod?

This question may seem silly, it did to me, but I was going to install my system before laying down the sod, naturally so I could water it. I've been told it's better to use a vibratory plow after the sod has "knitted" with the soil. This way less soil is disturbed then trenching and you don't have depressions in you lawn where you filled in the trench. Is this a consideration? It still would seem to be easier to do it before I install the sod.

Anyone use the blazing saddles? Are they ok to use on a bend in the poly pipe, or do they need to be on straight sections of poly only? For instance, when I get to a corner, I was just going to run the poly as close to the corner as possible, tap off it with a blazing saddle, run the funny pipe to the corner and attach the sprinkler head.

I've got a layout from the rainbird design service. It uses 1" poly pipe. It shows 1" poly (mains?) from the valves, but it also shows 1" poly from those mains to the sprinkler heads. The funny pipe is a smaller I.D., is it going to be problem going from 1" to a smaller diameter funny pipe to the sprinkler head?

Any help is appreciated. I have not installed a system before.