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The last 7 posts

Wednesday, May 17th 2006, 11:17pm

by Wet_Boots

A following question would be why are you not paying somoene this time, then. You can try to manually open one valve at a time (with the system running) to determine which is the stuck valve.

Wednesday, May 17th 2006, 7:09pm

by tpdun

Here is the dumb question...I don't see any differences when running. Am I supposed to take it apart to view any differences? this is why I pay someone to do this stuff...

Tuesday, May 16th 2006, 5:33pm

by tpdun

I'll give it a shot...thanks!

Tuesday, May 16th 2006, 5:11pm

by Wet_Boots

Remember the Sesame Street song? "One of these things is not like the other" ~ Check them visually. Go and buy a brand new valve of the identical make and model, so you can see how it goes together and comes apart. (and to supply you with any parts you need)

Search this forum with your valve name, and you will probably find a thread or two all about it.

Tuesday, May 16th 2006, 4:58pm

by tpdun

What is the next step to confirm that a valve is stuck open and what do I do if confirmed? Thanks for the reply.

Tuesday, May 16th 2006, 2:02pm

by Wet_Boots

One valve in the back is mechanically stuck open.

Tuesday, May 16th 2006, 12:49pm

by tpdun

Master Valve wiring

Our back sprinklers were installed with their own box in the back connected to a "master valve" in the front (this one in front is wired to the MV connection at the timer). When I turn on any one of the 9 zones around our home from the timer box, one valve in back is always on due to this MV connection; if I disconnect it, the back sprnklers do not turn on at all. In order to turn the back on manually, I must turn on this master valve in front and then go in back and turn on the others from there, but the one valve always stays on. The landscapers who installed this are no longer available to me and our current guy cannot understand why an actual sprinkler zone even turns on when the master is activated from either the timer or the box itself...any ideas? Thanks