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The last 10 posts

Wednesday, July 20th 2005, 5:24pm

by Wet_Boots

Wait a moment. Are these black plastic Toro Flo-Pro valves, with the solenoids and wire connections at the center of the valve top?

Sunday, July 17th 2005, 1:53pm

by Wet_Boots

With a multimeter, the most effective thing to check is resistance. Disconnect a zone wire from the numbered terminal, then measure its resistance to the common terminal, which can stay connected. Reconnect the wire, and try another one. If your multimeter could measure AC current, you could connect the problem zone through it, and actually watch the current flowing when the zone is on. That might just catch some sort of intermittent problem. But do recheck any field connections that might be able to affect the problem zone.

Sunday, July 17th 2005, 1:45pm

by RidgeRun05

Agreed, did you physically check the splices at the valves, or just do a visual? I have seen connections still in the wire nut before, but not making good enough contact to work. You may want to re-do the splices if you already have the ground dug up, just to see if it helps. Sometimes just a visual isn't good enough. Also, the ends of the wires may have become corroded and are no longer good conductors. You may have to strip back some wire and make a new connection. If there aren't any splices anywhere else in the yard, and all other zones are working normally, it has to be the wire at the valve or the controller. If this valve shares a common with the other valves, and the other valves work, suspect the zone wire, unless it is the last valve to be connected to the common, then check both again.

Sunday, July 17th 2005, 11:05am

by ktulu

Tony,

It's a new solenoid (verified it's working) and I double checked all the splices. Wiring at the terminal is all good as well. I think I'll double check all the wiring at the valves, two solenoids share a common wire, and then there is a splice for a third valve right next to it. A triple check is better than digging eh?

Sunday, July 17th 2005, 9:35am

by RidgeRun05

Check the wiring connections on that particular valve then. It may be possible that one of the connections is loose or corroded. There should be two wires off of the solenoid, one for the common, and one for the zone wire..Check the splices on both of these connections, and re-do the splices if need be. Also check the wiring at the terminal in the controller to make sure there are no bare wires touching each other. Did you try replacing the solenoid yet? If not, you may want to try that as well.

Sunday, July 17th 2005, 7:29am

by ktulu

No recent digging, and there are three valves in the same area. Fun :/

Saturday, July 16th 2005, 4:47pm

by RidgeRun05

You'll need to get ahold of, or get ahold of someone, who has a wire tracer and can find out where the wire is broken. Did you do any digging recently? Any construction? If not, wires don't just break in the ground by themselves (unless prior damage was done). I would check out at the valve for that particular zone for a loose wire or bad connection. If you don't want to bring in a pro or rent equipment, and the valve isn't too far away, bury a new wire.

Saturday, July 16th 2005, 4:34pm

by ktulu

I just tested some more stuff, and it looks like it's going to be a bad wire between the controller and the valve. Hopefully I know someone that can help me locate the problem, or just bury a new wire...

Saturday, July 16th 2005, 3:48pm

by ktulu

I am thinking at this point it's a wiring issue. If I move zone 5 to zone 6 (non working zone) it comes on, so it's something between the controller and the valve, the guy who came out and checked it said he could open the circuit from the controller using his multimeter. I have a multimeter, but I'm not sure what I need to set it at, I guess I can read the vague instructions that came with it.

What gets me is if I turn on zone 6, zone 9 comes on, why would that happen? Zone 9 also comes on if I switch it on manually. Could this just be a wiring problem at the valve?

Monday, July 11th 2005, 7:28am

by Wet_Boots

Get a multimeter and check the wiring for an open or short circuit. It will also verify that there is or isn't voltage present at the controller outputs.