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The last 5 posts

Friday, June 10th 2005, 3:20pm

by Wet_Boots

Toro's Flo-Pro valve was their attempt at imitating the industry leader. Poor attempt. The valve has been discontinued. Parts availability is uncertain. Funny thing is - Toro bought the company that bought the company that made the valves everyone wanted to imitate. They are now manufactured at Toro's facility, and carry the Irritrol brand name.

Friday, June 10th 2005, 6:49am

by ddpitcher

OK - So I will disassemble again, verify no debris, and then reassemble but somehow make sure I get both the lid and the solenoid as tight as possible?? Besides the zone working properly, is there a way to tell that the lid and solenoid have been tightened properly?? There is not an external water leak at either valve currently. Are there markings or torque values which should be made to ensure function?? The diaphram does have some non-symmetric features. There is a flimsy plastic tab which I suspect is used to aid in removal of the diaphram from the housing. On the bottom of the diaphram there are two white hard plastic tabs or nubs which are opposite each other. Do I need to align the nubs to the body when replacing the diaphram???

Regarding the Toro valves...........this is the first summer I have been at this house and the first time I have toyed with the sprinklers. Is there a history that would lead me to undertake the work required to remove 8 zones worth of Toro valves?? Will the future headaches outweigh the time and expense of such a project???

Friday, June 10th 2005, 5:53am

by bobw

Also check to make sure you put the lid on tightly. Basically, valves work on pressure differential. When the area above the diaphram is sealed, the water can not flow due to vacuum pressure. If the area above the diaphram is opened a little bit (i.e. a solenoid lifts up, not pressure tight, etc), the pressure differential will break the vacuum and the water will flow through the valve. So, if the valve is leaking, something is affecting the vaccum. You already removed the foreign objects from the bottom side, so check the top side for leaks... loose top, solenoid not tightened all the way, etc. Also, I'm not familiar with the particular valve you have, but in some older valves, the solenoid is not held in place by the housing. It is always possible that it has fallen out and dropped to the ground on you. It is a metal part, about 1/4" in diameter and maybe 3/4" long, usually has a spring wrapped around it....

Friday, June 10th 2005, 5:04am

by Wet_Boots

If the valves are black jar-top Toro Flo-Pro valves, you might just replace all the valves now, and save yourself headaches. Short of that, make sure the solenoids are fully seated clockwise.

Friday, June 10th 2005, 4:11am

by ddpitcher

Zone Stays on All the Time

OK, I have read many topics similar, but still don't know how to resolve. It started with a leaking zone, which I suspect I have fixed by disassembling the suspect valve for this zone, in which I found debris on the diaphram seat. But, after reassembling the valve and turning back on the water (with the controller still off) the zone came on. I thought perhaps I did not reassemble the valve correctly, so I disassembled the next zone in the valve box to study again how the valve should be assembled.....then reassembled both zones and now both zones are always on, even with the controller off. This is a Toro system, probably 10 years old. The solenoid is contained in a plastic housing which screws into the lid of the valve. The lid of the valve screws into the body of the valve. Both are integral threads in the plastic housing (not 4 screws, etc. as I have read within this forum). In both instances, I unscrewed the valve first, the lid second, removed the diaphram, spring, etc. and cleaned. Then I replaced the diaphram, set the spring and pintle into the lid, then replaced the lid. And finally, replaced the solenoid to the lid. There is an indication on the solenoid that you can manually turn the valve on at the valve. Have I done something to activate this feature which makes these valves always on?? How do I undo whatever I have done and get these zones to work on the controller again???