You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 10 posts

Tuesday, September 4th 2018, 5:01pm

by s0c9

Problem solved !!
And I feel REALLY STUPID about it. 'Cuz it was MY fault !
Cost: $157

The installers came out.. and tested stuff, checked the master valve (yes, there IS an electric one AFTER the manual shutoff and back-flow valves mentioned in my prior posts. It was buried and NOT marked on my schematic), replaced the "guts" of the new valve (with another new one - but didn't charge me for parts, that was nice), and still NOTHING.
We checked main water meter for leaks. All good. They're scratching their heads.

Then the lead guy had his partner close off one nozzle on the zone, then a 2nd, and bingo, it comes to life !!
They checked the other nozzles for leaks and replaced all the adjustable nozzles with FIXED 4-8' radii nozzles, then turned it on. All works fine. Apparently, the Hunter adjustable nozzles I had put on last year require more water pressure (to run the 11 nozzles in the zone) than the city source was supplying !!!

I never would have thought that. or known.. I learnt something.. and it cost me !!!
Oh well...
Thanks for everyone's help!

Monday, September 3rd 2018, 4:35pm

by RichMoney

I have seen people add a second valve in line with a valve that has been stuck open, instead of repairing the valve that is stuck open.

It is a quick and dirty fix at the time but creates problems troubleshooting it down the road.


In which case you should be able to see if the field wiring runs to another valve in line with it.

What kind of water source are you on? Well, pump or city water?

https://sprinklerresource.com

Wednesday, August 29th 2018, 7:17pm

by s0c9

yes... took guts out of the valve, opened the master shutoff, NO flow to zone (open pipe where valve should be) until I manually triggered the zone from the controller.
?(

Wednesday, August 29th 2018, 6:53pm

by mrfixit

I didn't know you took the guts out of the valve and still had not flow. Did you turn the water back on with the bonnet off of the valve?

Wednesday, August 29th 2018, 6:45pm

by s0c9

Checked voltage to solenoid and at controller.. a firm 24VAC at both ends. Yes, solenoid is being activated.
I've called the installers out to see if they can figure it out.. Tues pm is appt.
At this juncture, I've tried everything I can thing of...

I hope they installed an upstream valve that's defective, because it doesn't make sense that I can remove the value guts on the bad zone, open the master shutoff valve and get ZERO flow without turning on the bad zone at the controller.

I'll keep y'all posted..

Wednesday, August 29th 2018, 1:09am

by mrfixit

Are you sure the valve isn't coming on? Could all the screens be clogged? Are the nozzles turned down too low?

Maybe there's a loose fitting where the pipe gets pushed out when the water is on. Sometimes the pipe is inside the fitting and the heads work, then it gets pushed out and you lose pressure to the line.

Maybe do that pressure test at a hose bib. Compare the valve to others when they're off and on. You'll know if the valve comes on or not.

Could be debris inside the valve clogging a port. Sometimes it's clogged, sometime's it's not.

Tuesday, August 28th 2018, 9:57pm

by s0c9

OK.. tonight when I got home.
Zone STILL not working. Opened solenoid again. Zero flow.
Shut off main valve.
Removed the new valve and it's pieces-parts.
Opened the main valve and flushed water thru the lines for about a minute.
Closed main shutoff, drained water in the zone valve and re-assembled the zone valve.
Turned on main shutoff and checked for leaks. None.
Opened solenoid .. still no flow.
Screwed solenoid back closed, then turned on zone at controller.
I got low flow, then the zone started behaving normally. YAY !!
I ran it a couple of times like that - 3+ min each and all looked and worked great. Even adjusted the head radii and coverage.
FIXED !! Looks like I had crap in the line.,

Well, no.. Not quite.
About 2 hrs later I went to run it [manually] for 15 min, and we're back to low flow.. the original symptoms. 3 or 4 repeats (off, then ran it again) with same results. LOW FLOW!!!

I guess next step (tomorrow night) is to put a voltmeter across the solenoid wiring and check voltage to see if it drops after initial switch on.
Can't think of anything else to try, other than to move wires on the controller and try running it as another zone.
I voltage looks OK, then I'm stumped... :cursing:

Monday, August 27th 2018, 5:33pm

by s0c9

Thanks...
I did try surrounding zones (manual trigger off i-core) and they all work fine, albeit there seems to be quite a bit of "air" in the system..
I'll try the reset and report back.. I'm limited to trying this after business hours during the week.

Reset didn't fix anything.. no overlapping zones.. simply no water going to that specific zone, tho' zones around it work fine.

Monday, August 27th 2018, 3:56am

by mrfixit

Sorry fixing the valve didn't work. It sounds like there's a break in the line or a broke off sprinkler. Run it for a while and look for flooding.

If you have a hose bib you can watch the pressure with a gauge. If it doesn't drop then it's clogged. If it drops more than the other valves then there's a break.

With the Icore go ahead and press the reset button on the back of the faceplate. It wont erase your programming but it'll reboot it and possibly fix your problem. Double check all the programs to make sure they aren't overlapping.

It could also be a wiring problem with wires intermittently touching each other.

I'm pretty tired at the moment. I'll have to check tomorrow to see if I've made sense. haha

Sunday, August 26th 2018, 10:18pm

by s0c9

Finally got to replace the valve.
Behavior is basically the same.. There's ZERO pressure getting thru .. so the flow from the heads is barely a dribble.
I can open the solenoid by hand... ZERO flow. I can also hear it open/close when I disconnect one of the wires.
I can open the release valve some and I get a little pressured flow, but that's supposed to drain the valve, not create flow. Weird.
Does this mean that I have crap in the lines, and need to remove the valve and it's contents and flush the line ??