You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 1084 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 10 posts

Wednesday, May 4th 2011, 8:44pm

by elnino

This is a very old thread...but it helped me startup the 765 PVB in my sprinkler system :)
I did not know the correct sequence and thought the Bonnet\Poppet setup was broken.
After reading mrwettech's post I was able to startup the sprinkler without any issues.
Thanks mrwettech!! :)

Wednesday, June 15th 2005, 7:24am

by RidgeRun05

Must be a fly by night company. Thats alright though, because in this business, a lot of referrals and work comes by word of mouth, so it will get out eventually that this company has a poor reputation and is inexperienced, and they will suffer.

Wednesday, June 15th 2005, 3:53am

by TYGVR

I replaced the broken gate valves with ball valves, wasn't fun but they work now. Desoldering and resoldering 1" copper is tedious. Tip for anyone who needs to do this: try to figure out if you can desolder only one side and have enough room to disassemble the unit up to the next solder joint this will save time and hassle it worked for me. By the way the company that blew off the sprinkler head said they would not replace it they claim "if it blew off it must have been faulty". Thanks for all the advice. Next step trouble shooting stuck open valve and relocating sprinkler heads.

Thursday, June 2nd 2005, 5:06pm

by RidgeRun05

That is completely up to you, if any further repair issues come up, it will be easier to change out with a union, but they are also more prone to leaking than just soldering the joint. The choice is yours.

Thursday, June 2nd 2005, 7:18am

by TYGVR

Thanks for the advice!!!
I can solder (sweat) the copper but should I use a union or just replace it the way it was without a union?

Thursday, June 2nd 2005, 6:36am

by RidgeRun05

I would be calling the company who winterized out to have a look at it, and I would highly suggest you be stern about them replacing the sprinkler head, any reputable company wouldn't have a problem replacing it. I also wouldn't call that company back to do service anymore, if they do not know how to properly winterize a system. As for your backflow, it is probably a good idea to have a plumber come out and fix the valves if it is copper and they are soldered in place. Plumbers in our area run anywhere from $60-80 an hour plus parts. Good luck with your system.

Thursday, June 2nd 2005, 5:20am

by TYGVR

Just moved in last june. System worked fine last year but never used the gate valves. The controller box is an old discontinued rainbird crc6 so the valves are probably shot. Any chance of repairing the valves? There is no union so I think I would have to cut the nipples (or copper pipe) to replace. I am thinking of having a company out to repair it. Any idea on what it should cost? And by the way when this company blew out my system last year he said I had a missing sprinkler head. I never noticed anything all summer. It turns out that I think he actually blew it off because my neighbor found it in her bushes this spring. How should I approach this?

Wednesday, June 1st 2005, 6:54pm

by RidgeRun05

Yes, you are correct. These gate valves are the same as any other valve, right closes the valve, and left opens it. Gate valves are notorious for failing. It is possible that the valve is stripped, and no longer opening or closing, although the wheel will still spin. How old is the backflow unit, and/or valves you are using. You may have to replace these gate valves here before you go any further with your troubleshooting. If you are going to replace the valves, I would replace them with ball valves. Much higher quality, and will last much longer.

Wednesday, June 1st 2005, 3:57pm

by TYGVR

I am also a novice in the same situation. I figured out how the 765 works but I have gate valves not ball valves. When I tighten these and the water doesn't stop for either the inlet or outlet. This may sound ignorant but do gate valves work the same as other valves righty tighty lefty loosey. The problem I am having is when I get the 765 to work (by taking the bell off and pulling up the plunger while my wife turns the main on in the basement)one of my zones seems to be stuck on and I can't trouble shoot the zone because I have to keep running into the basemet to turn the main off and on. Any suggestions?

Tuesday, May 25th 2004, 8:14am

by drpete3

I agree.